Famous question

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Famous question

Postby cookietran » Fri Jul 31, 2020 8:46 am

I started surfing a few months ago and am hooked. I typically surf an 8' mini mal and can catch waves/ride the face...I dont rip by any means. I also have a 5'11 lost puddle jumper which I haven't used a whole lot. When I try to use it in crunchier surf it pearls, it's hard to duckdive bc the volume. I want something for the crunchier surf, where I live (beach break) when the waves pick up, even chest-head high is pretty steep. I was looking at some shortboards, primarily from CI. My question is, I know that my longboard will help me progress, but what about when the surf gets big/steep? I feel like I am limiting my experience not going out on the bigger days. Is there something to be said for just ripping the band aid off and getting the shortboard? I mean I feel like theres going to be a transition even if I continue to ride my mini mal for 10 years.
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Re: Famous question

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:30 am

. This is a video of people riding big steep waves on longboards
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Famous question

Postby waikikikichan » Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:57 am

cookietran wrote: I was looking at some shortboards, primarily from CI.

WHY and for what reasons you are looking mainly at CI boards ?
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Re: Famous question

Postby waikikikichan » Fri Jul 31, 2020 12:07 pm


0:25 mark: Bonga Perkins at macking Pipeline on a 9'1" molded epoxy board just taken out of the box, waxed up and ridden to a 10 point ride.

cookietran wrote:I started surfing a few months ago and am hooked. I typically surf an 8' mini mal and can catch waves/ride the face...I dont rip by any means. I also have a 5'11 lost puddle jumper which I haven't used a whole lot.

5'11" only after a few months of riding ? You'd better learn how to do a backside cutback with a 7'2" funboard before you even try something near 6'4", which is having at least 3-4 seasons under your belt.
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Re: Famous question

Postby shaaaaaan2020 » Thu Feb 04, 2021 8:16 pm

The 5'11 puddle jumper will be hard in bigger. steeper stuff - the bottom is designed to float and go fast - to maximize smaller waves. You don't need that in powerful surf. In fact, you need the opposite - something that helps you control the abundance of power. I had a similar shape to the puddle jumper in a 6'2" and I found it too skatey and corky when it got steep - planed too much - went too fast at takeoff and was hard (for me) to control.

It's not just about volume - that board was 40L. I'm on a 7'6 now that's like 53L - but handles shoulder/head high way better than the shorter board.

If you like the 8' mini-mal - but want something a little more performance-y - try an egg in the 7ft range - something with a bit more nose and tail rocker. It will have most of the float and stability of your minimal - but fit into bigger stuff better. Also - they're really fun to ride!

Just my $.02
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Re: Famous question

Postby Naeco78 » Thu Feb 04, 2021 11:26 pm

shaaaaaan2020 wrote:The 5'11 puddle jumper will be hard in bigger. steeper stuff - the bottom is designed to float and go fast - to maximize smaller waves. You don't need that in powerful surf. In fact, you need the opposite - something that helps you control the abundance of power. I had a similar shape to the puddle jumper in a 6'2" and I found it too skatey and corky when it got steep - planed too much - went too fast at takeoff and was hard (for me) to control.

It's not just about volume - that board was 40L. I'm on a 7'6 now that's like 53L - but handles shoulder/head high way better than the shorter board.

If you like the 8' mini-mal - but want something a little more performance-y - try an egg in the 7ft range - something with a bit more nose and tail rocker. It will have most of the float and stability of your minimal - but fit into bigger stuff better. Also - they're really fun to ride!

Just my $.02

Yeah I agree. Boards like the puddle jumper and other Grovelers have a wide tail and flat rocker that create lift for smaller conditions. In bigger surf, that same lift starts to work against you.. and can make the tail feel too loose. I went through that trial and error myself.
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