Surfing Waves

I found this on my facebook feed as a memory from 7 years ago.... "I had fun surfing the shore break today, some waves were head high and I did something I never did before.....made a bottom turn and put my hand down and touched the sand with my hand in the middle of the turn hahahahaha it was shallow right there " Pretty sure I haven't done that again although maybe surfed water that shallow.

Ha, never done that. But I do recall doing a top turn, looking towards the beach and realising that below me there was no water - I had meandered into the shore break and the wave was about to crash onto the bare sand. A rapid and adrenaline filled launch backwards and over the wave and I somehow survived without a scratch (either to me or my board)