Surfing Waves

If you are fortunate enough to surf regularly what are you working on?

Since I can only get to the coast once/month, I'm working with a surfskate to improve compression and extension in my pumps so I can stay ahead of fast waves.


I found a crowned street going straight down a gentle slope that's perfect for this kind of practice. I can pump the right side to simulate riding a left, and work the left side for a right.

Apart from the cars on the other side of the road it could any of many Australian suburban streetscapes!

This is the mainstreet of Dee Why where i grew up in the 60s


This the roof of the beach swimming club perfect viewing point for DeeWhy Point


This is another view of the pool,and the Point

The club roof is just out of shot to,the left!

The goal which I believe I‘ve kicked, surf till the end!

Every time I surf I work on reading waves and lining up in the right spot. I am still working on making solid turns frontside, (backside I seem to be doing okay.) Pretty soon if the hurricane season brings some nice swells I may switch to trying to get tubed.

jaffa1949 wrote:This the roof of the beach swimming club perfect viewing point for DeeWhy Point

What a glorious place to grow up. That wall looks endless!

oldmansurfer wrote:Every time I surf I work on reading waves and lining up in the right spot.

That one never gets old! At my break the waves can bend around shoals so just when I think I've got it nailed...I have to start all over.

You shouldn't get frustrated by it. LOL Just a few times recently in very difficult to read waves I managed to get lined up only to mess up on the drop LOL It's all part of surfing

BoMan wrote:

jaffa1949 wrote:This the roof of the beach swimming club perfect viewing point for DeeWhy Point

What a glorious place to grow up. That wall looks endless!

It is quite a long wave bowls into,the learners‘ section in a basin swinging around about 80°
Most DeeWhy grommets cut their teeth there with the goal of being allowed out the point!
You paddle out around the wave maybe with turtle rollsor later duck dive and going wide past the traffic.
Or you could jump off the rocks at the pool, this was also the way of avoiding the lifesavers/ lifeguard confiscating your board if the surf swimming area was tucked in the corner.
Of course they also patrolled the shoulder of the wave and there was no,drop in rule and the oars were big long hard and heavy!


but back to the rock off


It took serious timing and cajones to rock off on days like this, some serious bark was left on the oysters and cunjivoi

The goal was to get you and your board out the back before a monster closeout set took everything before it

jaffa1949 wrote:It took serious timing and cajones to rock off on days like this, some serious bark was left on the oysters and cunjivoi
The goal was to get you and your board out the back before a monster closeout set took everything before it

I would definitely wait for a smaller day. Thanks for posting these amazing shots!