Surfing Waves

I want to be rich.
I want to own a Maserati.
I want big muscles and a six pack
I want to be a pro baseballplayer , football player, MMA fighter, Pianist

BUT........ I want to do it in a year and have it as easy as possible.

Sorry, anything worthwhile takes time and a lot of sacrifice of blood, sweat and tears.

When I keep hearing " I want to get barreled ", I agree, we all do. It's the ultimate in surfing. But think about the ultimate thrill in any sport. You have to pay your dues. You going to have to get knocked down and get back up ( multiple times ). I've been surfing over 25 years, and no I have never been in a dry barrel. People watch Youtube and say " hey, I bet I can do that ". Yeah, go ahead ( I'll hold your beer while you try ) You don't have RESPECT for surfing. You don't have RESPECT for the wave. You don't, because you just DON'T KNOW. But you will learn.


Here are 20 tube rides. ( they are all awesome feats of technique and guts ) At least watch the last one.

And like they say " If it way easy, everyone would be doing it ".

Couldn’t agree more, for most surfers a dry barrel is like I climbed a hill so I can do Everest,

Waikikichan I assume by dry barrel you mean getting barreled and coming out without touching the lip, foamball, or chandeliers? It’s very likely because of the waves you are riding. Where I learned to surf bragging rights were to any surfer who could paddle out catch a wave get in the tube and come out with dry hair. Most of the braddahs myself included did this more than once. However to use the above definition was a much more common occurrence. I guess you could say I even did that bodysurfing we’ll before I ever started surfing and I did that an incredible number of times paipo boarding also before I surfed. Contrasting those two forms of wave riding, it is most difficult to accomplish that bodysurfing as it’s rare to make it out of a tube at all bodysurfing but very easy to do paipo boarding. From my own experience surfing I exited tubes 9 out of 10 times . So I know you are a very good surfer , most likely better than I ever was so it has to be the waves or a combination of the waves and the boards.

Does a head dip count?

BoMan wrote:Does a head dip count?

No but dandruff clearing!

Does being caught in a close out count as a barrel?

A video just came out on Nathan Florence's youtube channel. Talk about timing, totally related to what you're saying WKK..

Just to point out for you barrel hunters, there are waves that are much too small to get tubed but on the other spectrum the bigger the more room but not necessarily easier. You have to find that Goldilocks wave not too big not too small but just right

I'm assuming this is in light of my recent posts and podcast. We fully get it's near impossible to pull off in a year. That being said, it's a fun goal and I'm drastically improving my surfing in the quest. In the probable occurrence of missing our goal by the end of the year, surfing 20-30 hours/week will make me a far better surfer than the 20-30 hours/year I've been doing. Shoot for the moon, land amongst the stars.

Not only you Bogeysurfer, but many others have expressed a wanting to be in the tube. Which again, is every surfers “holy grail”.

I think with the usuage of GoPro and Vlogs like Jamie O’Brien, where we get a view that wasn’t really seen before, has really stroked the flame.

When I mentioned “Respect for the wave” it also means having the realization that it is truly up to the wave to get barreled. Yes, you do need the proper skills and proper board, but ultimately the wave says yea or nay. And that’s where the respect part comes in.

Don’t get me wrong, “Get barreled in a year” is possible. With the right wave, being in the right place at the right moment, I could set you up to pull in, and the wave throw over you tomorrow if you were here with me in Hawaii right now.

I get barreled once or twice a year in San Diego, but pure coincidence of surfing every weekend, not necesarily becuase I go somewhere special to get barreled.

For example, I was in Puerto Escondido with great easy conditions, head high daily (as opposed to way big and deadly) and, of my entire week there surfing dialy 3 hours I got barreled once (by the way, I don't consider cover-ups or barrels that close out as barreled, I only count going in, getting barreled, then going out).

It's all luck, unless you go to indo or somewhere that every wave is a barrel.

Lots of surfers want to get barreled but definitions vary. To me tubed and barreled are interchangeable and what it means is that the wave covers you up completely so someone looking from the shore can't see you outside of the wave although I guess technically speaking if you feet are visible that might still count sort of but then if the lip is contacting the water in front of your board then it is completely barreled. Other surfers will have different deffintions. I know some when the lip is over your head consider that good enough. Then there is the if you make it out or not. To me it is an honerable mention to get in a barrel and not make it out but not the real thing. However it is okay if the wave collapses on you and you ride out of the whitewater. The two most imprortant things to get barreled are the surfer and the wave. The board may hinder or help it a little but that all depends on the surfer and the wave. You can get tubed by accident but it has to be the right wave and a surfer who knows very well how to get tubed can do so in waves that other surfers would never get tubed on. I am sure there are lots of surfers who go to Bali and never get tubed even though the wave are barreling waves. I am still not sure what waikikichan meant by dry barrel. Anyway I have had lots (hundreds) of barrels tubes etc in my past as I learned to surf in an area with lots of barreling waves.