Surfing Waves

I thought this was interesting. I am sure other surfers do this but it sounds similar to me although I don't surf chopes.

So I rarely ride triple overhead or bigger waves but when I do I am concerned about going straight for the airdropping on the top half of the wave as that seems to happen much more often even waves that are not breaking like chopes. However as he points out often the wipeouts aren't too bad if you are in control. The thing he says about being in control over your wipeout is also something I try to do and also adjusting your body under water. This is pretty much what I assumed other surfers were doing but never heard it from any other surfer. I learned how to adjust my body underwater to prepare for potentially hitting the bottom bodysurfing big waves on a sand bottomed beach. Anyway interesting to me. Here is another video by him about when to duck dive and when to bail

That first was was really interesting, thanks for the link. It’s mostly what seems logical in terms of how to wipe out safety, but I see enough people doing it differently to know that logic isn’t always common. I mean, Inquire often see people not do even the simple thing of covering your head when surfacing if you don’t know where your board is. How to protect your head from hitting the bottom or being hit is definitely worth any tips that can be given

That said the video convinced me never to surf Chopes. Not that it was ever on my list but if I go senile and start thinking about it, I now know for sure it’s not for me

Whether to duck dive or bail when surfing 15ft waves...it’s funny how he talks about these issues like it’s just explaining to someone how to hit a golf ball or kick a football, no thoughts that’s it’s a bit of an insane thing to be doing in the first place. Still some of the tips (eg look for columns of clear water) will be useful for smaller waves as well

How to NOT wipe out by Kelia Moniz.
https://es.magicseaweed.com/news/kelia- ... ever/7762/

Full view at 1:00 close up at 1:15. Ouch !

Kelia is a charger but I wonder if the idea that she was being filmed made her go for it rather than taking a safer controlled wipeout? I think the Nathan Florence wipeout and duckdive instructions can be used in smaller surf as well.

She wipeout with style. So elegant and beautiful...

waikikikichan wrote:How to NOT wipe out by Kelia Moniz.
https://es.magicseaweed.com/news/kelia- ... ever/7762/

Full view at 1:00 close up at 1:15. Ouch !

I knew what the clip was before clicking on the link

oldmansurfer wrote:Kelia is a charger but I wonder if the idea that she was being filmed made her go for it rather than taking a safer controlled wipeout? I think the Nathan Florence wipeout and duckdive instructions can be used in smaller surf as well.

After the first bounce off the water she landed on top of her board, that didn't help!