Surfing Waves

I posted this description on facebook for a wave I caught the day before. The best tube ride I had since I started surfing again, which was still pretty pitiful. I went out at Wailua which had been up but the swell had died off. Initially I saw a set coming in when I got there but when I paddled out there were no waves for 10 minutes then I got hit by a set and tried to get positioned for the next one but it was maybe 15 minutes to the next wave and I came inside a little and made a late take off and pearled my board which I hardly ever do then managed to scramble back out to catch the last wave of the set and dropped down and thought I just need to stall and I will get tubed so I did and I did get tubed.


I rarely get tubed still yet

There is always that wave (or hopefully waves) that stick with you for a long time.

I thought this was cool because I pearled and recovered my board and paddled back out in time to catch the last wave of the set. These were waves with about 8 foot faces. It really was just lucky that I didn't get swept inside and responded quick enough to get over the next wave. I guess there was some time between waves so not like the usual where there is no time to recover. While it is likely that in my first go around of surfing I have done this many times this remains the only time I have done this on the second go around, to wipe out on the first wave of a set and catch the last wave of the same set (bonus that I got tubed). Of course at a crowded break this would never happen but it was only me out.