Surfing Waves

So as I've mentioned elsewhere I'm very inexperienced, a middle aged guy who can't afford a Ferrari so instead decided to fight the decline by taking to the waves. I had a few lessons in Porto and promptly purchased all the kit a beginner needs on my return to the UK. Today I drove out to Broadstairs in Kent (at one point the home of Charles Dickens) just to get my new Bic Magnum wet. The water was as flat as a pancake, barely a ripple to be seen, but this is what I wanted as I correctly guessed there would be no surfers whose passage I could impede and I just wanted to practice getting on the board, lying sitting, paddling and popping up even if just to fall off immediately as my board bobbed around like a cork in still sheltered waters of Viking Bay.
I felt a bit self conscious to be honest, plodding down through the beach in early November past the families in their sweaters and jackets and hats as they walked their dogs. But the moment I got in the water it all just melted away and I was in a happy little surfing-inept world of my own. I did make a bit of progress, improved my paddling, got a better sense of balance on the board, and learned to sit on the board which I felt quite proud of.
After about an hour and a half with the light dying I climbed the steep stone staircase up the cliff, panting and knackered, happy to have left my problems with the sea at least for the time being. Being the only person in a wetsuit there meant that I got a lot of friendly conversation as I dripped my way back to the car which was kind of fun as well.

In conclusion, even with no waves to surf on I still had a damn good time out there with my board. I was smiling for every one of the 67 miles back to London. Can't wait to get out there again!

Excelsior!

Legend! Keep the stoke

That's right. The one thing that is a constant no matter where you are in your progress is the joy of being in the water. That's what will keep you coming back and before you know it you're surfing.

I call it ocean therapy. Need my dose of vitamin sea.

Happy healthy hydrotherapy. Stoked,

Just fyi, I think Brighton might be closer and have a better chance of swells. Also ryanair/easyjet have cheap flights to Portugal. You can probably do a short weekend trip, stay in a surf hostel and it will be cheaper than staying at a b&b in uk.

BaNZ wrote:Just fyi, I think Brighton might be closer and have a better chance of swells. Also ryanair/easyjet have cheap flights to Portugal. You can probably do a short weekend trip, stay in a surf hostel and it will be cheaper than staying at a b&b in uk.

Brighton is about the same distance and it probably does have better swells but I just decided to go somewhere quiet where it's easy to park and I'm not getting in anybody's way while I just practice the basics.
I did my first few lessons in Portugal and I have a little family run surf camp I can look up for long weekends etc so yes I'll definitely be heading back there in the new year as soon as I've got some leave

Reading your post put a smile on my face.

Yama, remember this: "The best surfer is the one that has the most fun." By the way, I routinely and regularly surfed alone. Sometimes, especially between 2006 and 2009, I simply paddled to the outback with no intention of trying to catch waves. I was so exhausted from work and other stress, that I'd go hang out. I'd watch the surfers and soak my aching head in the colder waters in NorCAL. So, it's not necessary to even catch waves to enjoy the bounty offered by the greater outdoors.
billie

billie_morini wrote:Yama, remember this: "The best surfer is the one that has the most fun." By the way, I routinely and regularly surfed alone. Sometimes, especially between 2006 and 2009, I simply paddled to the outback with no intention of trying to catch waves. I was so exhausted from work and other stress, that I'd go hang out. I'd watch the surfers and soak my aching head in the colder waters in NorCAL. So, it's not necessary to even catch waves to enjoy the bounty offered by the greater outdoors.
billie

Thank you for this! Yes I agree that enjoying the experience is more important than focusing on the goals of attaining a desired level of competency. One advantage of being an older surfer is that I'm not fuelled by ego and the competitive nature that comes with being a young buck.

Excelsior!