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Surfing dorian

Posted:
Sat Sep 07, 2019 1:52 am
by SnakePlissken
Who's in?
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:27 am
by billie_morini
Well, didja?!
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:30 pm
by SnakePlissken
Haha no, l like the use of my arms and legs!
Unfortunately the hurricane washed away almost the entire sandbar, so there isn't any surfing at all now. Check out the beach cam on the surfline website for Virginia Beach, VA, the cam is titled Croatian to Pendleton
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 4:10 pm
by BaNZ
NY had good Dorian swell for around 1.5 day! It looked like the best day they had in over a year.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:18 pm
by oldmansurfer
30 to 40 mph winds are wicked to surf in.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:48 am
by SnakePlissken
Ya well, now there's no surfing at all here. Hoping it will come back by this weekend, but I decided to buy a skateboard just in case.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:51 am
by SnakePlissken
oldmansurfer wrote:30 to 40 mph winds are wicked to surf in.
Wicked like my ex wife. Lots of fun untill you're smashed on the bottom
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:31 pm
by kookRachelle
Dorian was awesome on Saturday. NYC Parks banned swimming and surfing, and it turned into an absolutely gorgeous day, the rips weren't as strong as they originally thought, and people were scoring left and right. I sat on the beach and watched as countless "Parkies" and cops went up and down with their whistles and megaphones ordering people to get out of the water, but what the hell were they gonna do, swim out to get them? People just ignored them and they eventually just quietly walked back and forth while people surfed. Definitely one of the best days I've seen at Rockaway. I told a news person it's the equivalent of going skiing on a snow day, c'mon. Surfers WAIT all year for this!
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:36 pm
by kookRachelle
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:34 pm
by BoMan
Looks fast. Was it?
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:44 pm
by BaNZ
BoMan wrote:Looks fast. Was it?
It's super fast at Rockaway when the swell hits. I struggle to take off when it is over 5-6 feet. It barrels very quickly and dumps you on the beach. I'm on a 9'0 so it is harder to catch them.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 4:42 pm
by kookRachelle
BoMan wrote:Looks fast. Was it?
What BaNZ said... Rockaway breaks super fast, even when the swell is just waist high. You've got just a second to get up and there are some ledges so you have to get into position fast. The first thing I've noticed surfing other locations is that the waves are more forgiving and you have more time to get up and position your feet. I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:17 pm
by BaNZ
kookRachelle wrote:I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.
That is really true. I was surfing with Bill last sat and he said that was a steep take off! I was like that is nothing compared to Rockaway. It's probably only 20% of the steepness or speed at RB.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:21 pm
by kookRachelle
BaNZ wrote:kookRachelle wrote:I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.
That is really true. I was surfing with Bill last sat and he said that was a steep take off! I was like that is nothing compared to Rockaway. It's probably only 20% of the steepness or speed at RB.
Nothing like taking off on a steep one and feeling the bottom drop out from under you! I always eat it.

Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:24 pm
by kookRachelle
This was Steff on Sat when the bottom dropped out right near the rocks. I've never seen him wipe out so hard... he got dragged on the bottom and then took one on the head when he came up. Guy's a beast and says it was definitely a top ten wipe out. And he's surfed triple overhead at Alligator Rock in North Shore!
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:25 pm
by oldmansurfer
I have tried to imagine how one can get to that position on a wave but just cannot figure it out
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:27 pm
by kookRachelle
oldmansurfer wrote:I have tried to imagine how one can get to that position on a wave but just cannot figure it out
falling feet first?
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2019 11:02 pm
by oldmansurfer
What was he doing to have board to the side and fall feet first from the lip? Maybe a top turn off the lip and got ejected because the lip smacked the bottom of the board so much? Yeah that is what I have had happen.
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:43 am
by oldmansurfer
I never really thought about how that looked but maybe like that
Re: Surfing dorian

Posted:
Fri Sep 13, 2019 3:55 am
by SnakePlissken
Kookrachel, that looks awesome!
Of course leave it to New Yorkers to just blow off the police
Since you mentioned it, my beach butts up to a military base and if you go past a certain point, yes they will come out and get you. With great enthusiasm.