Surfing dorian

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Surfing dorian

Postby SnakePlissken » Sat Sep 07, 2019 1:52 am

Who's in?
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Charlie don't surf
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby billie_morini » Tue Sep 10, 2019 3:27 am

Well, didja?!
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby SnakePlissken » Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:30 pm

Haha no, l like the use of my arms and legs!

Unfortunately the hurricane washed away almost the entire sandbar, so there isn't any surfing at all now. Check out the beach cam on the surfline website for Virginia Beach, VA, the cam is titled Croatian to Pendleton
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby BaNZ » Tue Sep 10, 2019 4:10 pm

NY had good Dorian swell for around 1.5 day! It looked like the best day they had in over a year.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:18 pm

30 to 40 mph winds are wicked to surf in.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby SnakePlissken » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:48 am

Ya well, now there's no surfing at all here. Hoping it will come back by this weekend, but I decided to buy a skateboard just in case.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby SnakePlissken » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:51 am

oldmansurfer wrote:30 to 40 mph winds are wicked to surf in.


Wicked like my ex wife. Lots of fun untill you're smashed on the bottom
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:31 pm

Dorian was awesome on Saturday. NYC Parks banned swimming and surfing, and it turned into an absolutely gorgeous day, the rips weren't as strong as they originally thought, and people were scoring left and right. I sat on the beach and watched as countless "Parkies" and cops went up and down with their whistles and megaphones ordering people to get out of the water, but what the hell were they gonna do, swim out to get them? People just ignored them and they eventually just quietly walked back and forth while people surfed. Definitely one of the best days I've seen at Rockaway. I told a news person it's the equivalent of going skiing on a snow day, c'mon. Surfers WAIT all year for this!
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:36 pm

4.jpg

3.jpg

2.jpg

1.jpg

5.jpg
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby BoMan » Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:34 pm

Looks fast. Was it?
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby BaNZ » Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:44 pm

BoMan wrote:Looks fast. Was it?


It's super fast at Rockaway when the swell hits. I struggle to take off when it is over 5-6 feet. It barrels very quickly and dumps you on the beach. I'm on a 9'0 so it is harder to catch them.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Sep 12, 2019 4:42 pm

BoMan wrote:Looks fast. Was it?


What BaNZ said... Rockaway breaks super fast, even when the swell is just waist high. You've got just a second to get up and there are some ledges so you have to get into position fast. The first thing I've noticed surfing other locations is that the waves are more forgiving and you have more time to get up and position your feet. I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby BaNZ » Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:17 pm

kookRachelle wrote:I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.


That is really true. I was surfing with Bill last sat and he said that was a steep take off! I was like that is nothing compared to Rockaway. It's probably only 20% of the steepness or speed at RB.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:21 pm

BaNZ wrote:
kookRachelle wrote:I'm still learning and everyone says that if you can surf Rockaway you can surf anywhere - it can be tricky.


That is really true. I was surfing with Bill last sat and he said that was a steep take off! I was like that is nothing compared to Rockaway. It's probably only 20% of the steepness or speed at RB.


Nothing like taking off on a steep one and feeling the bottom drop out from under you! I always eat it. :roll:
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Sep 12, 2019 5:24 pm

5.jpg


This was Steff on Sat when the bottom dropped out right near the rocks. I've never seen him wipe out so hard... he got dragged on the bottom and then took one on the head when he came up. Guy's a beast and says it was definitely a top ten wipe out. And he's surfed triple overhead at Alligator Rock in North Shore!
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby oldmansurfer » Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:25 pm

I have tried to imagine how one can get to that position on a wave but just cannot figure it out
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby kookRachelle » Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:27 pm

oldmansurfer wrote:I have tried to imagine how one can get to that position on a wave but just cannot figure it out


falling feet first?
Your life is made of two dates and a dash - make the most of the dash.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby oldmansurfer » Thu Sep 12, 2019 11:02 pm

What was he doing to have board to the side and fall feet first from the lip? Maybe a top turn off the lip and got ejected because the lip smacked the bottom of the board so much? Yeah that is what I have had happen.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:43 am

I never really thought about how that looked but maybe like that
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surfing dorian

Postby SnakePlissken » Fri Sep 13, 2019 3:55 am

Kookrachel, that looks awesome!
Of course leave it to New Yorkers to just blow off the police

Since you mentioned it, my beach butts up to a military base and if you go past a certain point, yes they will come out and get you. With great enthusiasm.
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