Surfing Waves

When a swell arrives I'm usually committed to something else and have to decide between doing "what's right" or "what's fun." Waves like these send me to the dark side. How do you cope with this?

Some people are always jealous no matter what you do, and you can’t tell them you’re enjoying your life because they will hold it against you.

Some people can handle the truth, and I just tell them I’m going surfing.

Some people understand and encourage me to do what makes me happy.

I have all of these people in my life. Luckily my wife falls into the third category.



Tom

My wife wants me to go surf because she knows I am happier after I do go. My signature is a joke in case you are wondering. I surfed with my wife before we got married

My wife actually asks me to go surfing. It helps immensely with symptoms of my PTSD, which makes me a lot easier to live with. So the perspective I have is that sometimes it's important to do things for yourself. Who else will?

Now that I'm retired I can paddle out when swells arrive...as long as I keep the "permission meter" on green. That said, I put surfing on the back burner for 30 years while working a career and helping raise a family. If I could do it all over again, I'd look for ways to do it all.

How do you manage work and family time with surfing?

I work with my wife so we are together all day long. Maybe that is the key? After spending so much time together she enjoys having some time for herself so I get a boys night out as well every other week.

My wife is happy for me to get out there! I just make sure later on I take the kids and give her a chance to do something she wants to do. Happy wife, happy life!