Surfing Waves

waikikikichan wrote:when us longboarder paddle and get up further outside, they all just turn around at the last moment right in front of us and we then have to pull out.

Every time I surf Trestles during a South swell, I feel like I showed up late to the Southern California Asshole Convention. Imagine giving 500 cats a fleshin' ton of catnip and setting them loose in a confined space. It’s absolute chaos. Boards, limbs, inhibitions, boots, dicks, fists, hats, wax, morals, Beefs TV, rocks, jocks, Wavestorms, Man Storms, John Stamos, pros, hoes, and Cotton Eyed Joes - xxxxx’s flying everywhere. It’s like when the Looney Toons Tasmanian Devil becomes a whirling dervish, gobbling up everything in its path - but it doesn’t move. It’s a constant tornado churning around the same trailer park over and over until the swell finally dissipates. I wanted to die, but simultaneously never felt more alive. This is what going to war must feel like.

The waves are worth it (almost), but holy fleshin' xxxxx, is my patience tested to the extreme. Trestles during a south should come with a claustrophobia and potential PTSD warning. fleshin' that place. But also, I can’t wait to go back.

waikikikichan wrote:Most of the beginner weekend warriors on their shortboard stand in waist high water, then jump onto the board when the wave comes ( instead of paddling into them ).

waikikikichan wrote:Surfing and street Skating have always been popular among Japanese youth, so I wouldn't say any "MORE" popular. But it might change the mind of the older generation that think surfers do nothing and only smoke weed all day.