Surfing Waves

I give big props to this beginner. Took a licking but kept on ticking. Thought he get pushed back on the beach ( or dry docked on the inside reef ) , but he made it to the line up and got a good one.

Watch from 2:05

I think I'll be too scared to go out in that condition. That is way too big.

How long do you think he has been surfing? He rode the wave well but his paddle and popup looks like he only just started. But I'll probably be like that if I ever have to popup on such a big wave.

I’m not afraid of waves that big, I’m just afraid of all the work it takes to ride them!

There's a great example of commitment...in paddling out, making the drop, and taking a high line. That average joe is not average!

Look mom I'm surfing! I think that is the one we were wondering if he made it out. I guess so at least once. What a beautiful wave!

Is he wearing some kind of life saving vest or those that fill up with air? He has something on his back that is bulky. I didn't think you need a wetsuit in Bali.

oldmansurfer wrote:Look mom I'm surfing! I think that is the one we were wondering if he made it out. I guess so at least once. What a beautiful wave!

Love the marriage and Surfing signature!

literally me ... when it's over 3 ft

except for the ride

Yes! I'm so happy for this guy catching that giant wave!

If I were to guess I'd say he's just starting on surfboards but probably had some experience in the ocean before, bodyboarding maybe? Big respect for the attitude!

If a surfer is wearing something like a harness, could it be anything but an inflation device?

because there was a guy wearing one today....

in 3-4 ft waves...

breaking very close to shore.

pmcaero wrote:If a surfer is wearing something like a harness, could it be anything but an inflation device?

because there was a guy wearing one today....

in 3-4 ft waves...

breaking very close to shore.

Is he from NYC? my friend who just started wanted to get one of those. I'm like don't ever come near me and I don't know you.

1) Flotation vest
2) Go Pro chest / shoulder harness
3) Paddle Air rib protector
4) MX chest protector

waikikikichan wrote:1) Flotation vest
2) Go Pro chest / shoulder harness
3) Paddle Air rib protector
4) MX chest protector

Hmm, chest protector would make more sense in shallow water than a flotation device. But then why wasn't he wearing a helmet too? And wouldn't a Go Pro chest harness hamper while paddling?

BaNZ wrote:
Is he from NYC? my friend who just started wanted to get one of those. I'm like don't ever come near me and I don't know you.

no, New Hampshire

That's awesome

And what a blessing it must be to live near a beach like that. This is us today

SnakePlissken wrote:That's awesome

And what a blessing it must be to live near a beach like that. This is us today

would you really go out in those waves? you must be a true waterman!

Just some thoughts on GoPro wearing, look at your GoPro, hard plastic camera in a hard plastic water proof housing.
Dangerous place to wear them.
On a fitted baseball cap or an head band mounting, face or head plant would drive that little hard box into your frontal lobes through your skull!
Serious brain injury or possible death.
Snorkel type teeth grip mount, can you spit it out in time? Severe jaw or teeth loss.

Chest mount, uncomfortable to paddle, being chest slammed possible broken ribs at least.

If you want that, this is how it look video, get a Gath Helmet with visor mount much better head protection.

Top of helmet mount does increase the risk of whiplash type cervical trauma before it breaks off the helmet.

Hand held video a little better for safety.

Get videoed from the beach always looks better!

jaffa1949 wrote:Just some thoughts on GoPro wearing, look at your GoPro, hard plastic camera in a hard plastic water proof housing.
Dangerous place to wear them.
On a fitted baseball cap or an head band mounting, face or head plant would drive that little hard box into your frontal lobes through your skull!
Serious brain injury or possible death.
Snorkel type teeth grip mount, can you spit it out in time? Severe jaw or teeth loss.

Chest mount, uncomfortable to paddle, being chest slammed possible broken ribs at least.

If you want that, this is how it look video, get a Gath Helmet with visor mount much better head protection.

Top of helmet mount does increase the risk of whiplash type cervical trauma before it breaks off the helmet.

Hand held video a little better for safety.

Get videoed from the beach always looks better!

I recently bought a board with a GoPro mount on the nose

pmcaero wrote:

SnakePlissken wrote:That's awesome

And what a blessing it must be to live near a beach like that. This is us today

would you really go out in those waves? you must be a true waterman!

It gets better, but not a whole not a lot. Gotta take what you can out here. But on the plus side they say if you can catch waves here you can catch waves anywhere. Not that I have...