Surfing Waves

Hi all,

Just wanted to gather some opinions really. A couple of guys at my local break choose not to wear a leash. The problem is that one of them has lost control of his board a few times and you see it being washed in towards the people paddling out and the other bathers.

I understand why people want to free them selves from the leash whilst long-boarding but when I mentioned to this guy that he was putting others at risk he really didn't see the problem and accused me of being rude.

Is the general consensus that surfing with no leash is okay? Or should we all be concerned (like me) about loose boards flying around in the line up?

I will add that this particular guy has a good reputation locally and is a "nice guy".

Cheers

Cheers.

In Waikiki, I don't use a leash. The way the reef break is, it is very hard for a board to wash in to the beach. In Japan, with it's beach break waves crashing close to shore, it is pretty much mandatory ( and a rule ) at most beaches.

Question:
1) Who is the better surfer, You or Him ?
2) Which one of you has been a "local" at that particular break longer, You or Him ?
3) Is there a channel to the side to paddle around and back out on ?

Hi, Thanks for the reply.

In response to your questions:

Question:
1) Who is the better surfer, You or Him ? Him - by far
2) Which one of you has been a "local" at that particular break longer, You or Him ? - Not sure on this one, I've surfed there for nearly 20 years, I'm guessing we are equally local.
3) Is there a channel to the side to paddle around and back out on ? - It's a beach break so the peaks are all over the place.

The last thing I want to do is fall out with people, but when I see long-boards out of control, it makes me think that "that surfer" should have a leash on. There are others who don't wear leashes, but I've never seen them lose control of their board.

Seems to me he can't be all that good if he's losing control of his board all the time? Nothing like a little public shaming to get a fellow human to alter their behavior. I bet if a few surfers just told him he's being a barney not wearing a leash, he'd probably think twice. How nice of a guy could he be if he's putting others at risk too? I've seen this in the lineup myself. Public shame is perhaps all that separates us from the primates!

There has been litigation in Australia, where a loose leashless long board, from a “hipster” log rider has caused serious head injury to another surfer.
It was successful.
There are no regulations that make leashes mandatory in Australia, but there is the possibility for litigation over injury!

No one is capable of surfing without a wipeout, when I grew up every board was a heavy long board, no leashes, flick outs and flying boards.
Every surfer had to be capable in the water, and be able to duck and dodge.
First leashes that were effective were surgical rubber, rebound rate the same speed as the board went out, no plugs for the leash, a hole drilled in the base of your fin for attachment, meant the upturned board with the rip tear and lacerate fin was heading back at you. Horrific injuries

I surf without a leash occasionally when it’s small and uncrowded to teach myself the techniques and mechanics of board responsibility, and also to practice cross stepping. A few times the waves or the crowd picked up and I have lost my board. No one got hurt, but it’s a bit embarrassing. You really have to pick your spots when you’re learning, and if you’re not 100% capable, leash the damned thing.

Having said that, I’ve been surfing with a foamie lately in small beach break waves with no leash, and I don’t hold myself to the same standard, because, well, it’s a foamie.

Tom

Long ago there were no leashes and it was better than today. Leashes allow kooks to surf. Back then when there were no leashes if a kook made it out to the lineup they would catch a wave and lose their board then have to swim back in to get their board and then maybe lose it repeatedly on the way back out and be out of the lineup for a good length of time. With every one not having leashes you learned not to paddle out inside of other surfers which is still how it is supposed to be except that now others have leashes so you don't have to worry about getting hit by their boards paddling out inside of them so kooks paddle out inside of the other surfers. Now if a kook makes it outside they wipeout and then they don't have to swim for their board and in fact board and surfer remain in the lineup exactly where they shouldn't be while they struggle to get back outside. Not having a leash was a limiting factor meaning less surfers. If you wanted to learn to surf you had to put in lots of time because you spent most of it swimming for your board.

If the break is crowded then everyone should wear a leash.

A lost board is dangerous to everyone inside and as Jaffa says “No one is capable of surfing without a wipeout.”

I agree :
1. If the break is crowded then everyone should wear a leash. A lost board is dangerous to everyone inside and
2. as Jaffa says “No one is capable of surfing without a wipeout.”

I teach water safety and lifesaving and I feel no-leash surfing is hazardous to others in the water e.g. losing your board paddling through a big set, and some poor dude paddling behind you gets it in the head, OR dings their board OR there are swimmers inshore who have to deal with a loose board ( long or short they're all dangerous to a non-surfer )
No leash surfing is also potentially dangerous to the surfer themselves e.g. you lose your board surfing a sandbank formed by a rip, your board goes to the beach and your stuck in a rip. It once happened to me and I spent 45 minutes fighting the rip to get to shore.