Surfing Waves

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz1yVlbH3MC/

My guess - A fast wave from the secondary swell is moving through the primary.

Global Warming ?

I saw that video and kept replaying that part. Crazy what nature can do.

there is definitely 2 swells combined there and maybe some bottom contour stuff happening

I thought it was a backwash wave that just hit in such a perfect angle that it keep up with the wave lol

IanCaio wrote:I thought it was a backwash wave that just hit in such a perfect angle that it keep up with the wave lol

I thought so the first time I saw that video but you can see a ridge in the wave that stays in front of the peak or lurching up section

If you knew this would keep happening, would you surf differently?

As a mellow longboarder I'd try to pull even with the disruption just to get a good look...and it would wipe me out!

I would just do my best to get the most from the wave. If the first ride wasn't perfect then try harder on the second wave. When presented with the same challenging wave repeatedly I try a variety of tactics searching for what works

IanCaio wrote:I thought it was a backwash wave that just hit in such a perfect angle that it keep up with the wave lol

That's what it looks like to me as well.

BoMan wrote:https://www.instagram.com/p/Bz1yVlbH3MC/

My guess - A fast wave from the secondary swell is moving through the primary.

Yeah, it kinda looks like a one-in-a-million (or at least rare) moment of 2 swells from slightly different directions intersecting perfectly on shore.

Apparently that is skeleton bay and a backwash