Surfing Waves

Just wanted to celebrate.

was able to get up and ride it for just a second or so, but still counts right?

Many beach break rides are for a few seconds anyway, so you basically did everything JJF could have done

dtc wrote:Many beach break rides are for a few seconds anyway, so you basically did everything JJF could have done

Most importantly I had a good time.

So what's a jjf?

JJF = John John Florence

Despite me being an Australian, I’ll readily admit JJF is the best surfer in the world at the moment. His last 2 comps at Margaret River (esp 2018) are just magical

SnakePlissken wrote:was able to get up and ride it for just a second or so, but still counts right?

If you rode your bicycle for a foot then fell down is that cycling ? "Riding" for a second is just a delayed fall. But of course we don't know if the surf break / wave only offers a second worth of ride.

And if you only rode for a second, you need to ask yourself "did I catch the wave ?" or "did the wave catch me ?"

If you're going to drive a 100 miles to only ride for a second, I would leave your customized soft top at home and find a true surf school and take a lesson from a competent instructor.

waikikikichan wrote:

SnakePlissken wrote:was able to get up and ride it for just a second or so, but still counts right?

If you rode your bicycle for a foot then fell down is that cycling ? "Riding" for a second is just a delayed fall. But of course we don't know if the surf break / wave only offers a second worth of ride.

And if you only rode for a second, you need to ask yourself "did I catch the wave ?" or "did the wave catch me ?"

If you're going to drive a 100 miles to only ride for a second, I would leave your customized soft top at home and find a true surf school and take a lesson from a competent instructor.

Dang bro, I was just happy I was making progress...

Not trying to rain on your parade or bum you out. It’s good to set those small goals to aim for. Step by step. Crawl before you walk, walk before you run. We all started from the beginning too.
BUT save your “celebrating” for the time you scratch hard paddling, barely making it into the wave, scream down the face, bottom turn with the fins just holding on, rise up and set your rail, then fly across the face and end the wave on your feet. You can do it / You will do it.
( if you don’t get ahead of yourself )

waikikikichan wrote:Not trying to rain on your parade or bum you out. It’s good to set those small goals to aim for. Step by step. Crawl before you walk, walk before you run. We all started from the beginning too.
BUT save your “celebrating” for the time you scratch hard paddling, barely making it into the wave, scream down the face, bottom turn with the fins just holding on, rise up and set your rail, then fly across the face and end the wave on your feet. You can do it / You will do it.
( if you don’t get ahead of yourself )

That seems a ways down the road. I'm going to celebrate the small victories along the way. And when I get there, you can celebrate with me

SnakePlissken, Surfers are a salty bunch. You'll get used to it. Share some photos of your surfing and make these grey bellies eat some crow!