Surfing Waves

What is the temporal and spatial distribution of energy on an ocean wave as it breaks? I.E. How much energy is in the trough, the pit, the peak and the shoulder? Does anyone have any sources or images demonstrating this? I've been trawling google scholar, the library, even youtube for the past 2 hours and not found anything about energy dissipation on an actual breaking wave. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This advice is from Youtube: When the wave breaks here, ......................

Hemmingway6 wrote:What is the temporal and spatial distribution of energy on an ocean wave as it breaks? I.E. How much energy is in the trough, the pit, the peak and the shoulder? Does anyone have any sources or images demonstrating this? I've been trawling google scholar, the library, even youtube for the past 2 hours and not found anything about energy dissipation on an actual breaking wave. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The best bet would be to follow this link
www.surfscience.org/about
Dr. Tony Butt covers a lot about what you might wish to know your question is in the the same range as how long is a piece of string.
60 years of my own surf experience seems to bear this out!

In earnest, I expect as much has been written by the previous well known holder of your name as Dr. Tony Butt has written.
Hope the source helps

Both great advice, many thanks

Hemmingway6 wrote:Both great advice, many thanks

You've probably already tried this, and I'm not sure it would answer exactly what you want anyway, but have you tried using the term hydrodynamics in your search term? Fluid dynamic simulation is actually a really complex thing because it involves simulations of just a ton of data points. So I guess maybe my question is are you asking about the usable energy that pushes your surfboard or the actual kinetic energy in the wave?

Either way I'm interested to hear what you find

I don't know if there are any physicists here on Surfing Waves but one thing I am sure of is that the way that energy is dispersed from a wave depends on the swell and the bottom conditions. This will affect the shape of the wave and the thickness of the lip and whether it crumbles or tosses over like teahupoo or pipeline