Surfing Waves

Today would be my mother’s 99th birthday.
When I became a surfer in 1958, she was of the belief that I would grow out of surfing and become a stable human .
She was waiting for this to happen
Surfing has given my whole life a an essence and direction that has been so rewarding.
Sorry mum still doing it!
This really is a note of thanks to our mums and dads, and the gift of surfing

My mom used to worry about me drowning and encouraged me to take swimming classes. By the time I was in the fourth grade I was in advanced swimming classes and one of the fastest swimmers around. By the time I was in sixth grade I took and passed junior lifesaving classes. I became the guy who helped others in trouble instead of needing help. Then when I turned 18 she bought me my first surfboard. My mom is gone but thanks mom