Surfing Waves

Hey I got this new board but I nosedive when I stand up or the whole board just dissapears in the water, it's quite a big board, 7'3 with 46 liters of volume. What could be one of the reasons I nose dive (when paddling and when already standing)

Here's how I catch a wave,

I paddle straight to the beach while checking if the nose doesn't go under water, whe I caught the wave I pop up look at the board for 2 seconds and than straight forward to make sure the nose is out of the water... But 90% of the time I nosedive anyways

1) Most likely you're too far forward on the board. Try moving further back.
2) You might be too big for the board. How much do you weigh? As a general guideline, here is a volume chart from Rusty Surfboards. This is just a guide and is NOT necessarily true for all boards and all surfboards. 49L puts you at about 160lbs/72kg. If you're significantly over that, you should consider learning on a larger board.

3) Perhaps, you're not paddling hard enough and the wave is lifting the tail of your board before you're getting fully into the wave.
4) Or, last but least: sea goblins! Unlikely, but you can never be too careful.

I weight 51kg so I don't think that's the issue, I might need to paddle harder and at an angle early in the wave

If the nose is going under after you are standing then either you are weighting the nose too much (too far forward/too weighted to the front foot) or the nose is burying itself underwater as the board hits the flats (bottom of the wave). The wave from side on looks like (__. When your tail is still up in the curved bit but the nose is in the flat bit, the nose will go under (\__

The former obviously requires more back foot.

The latter, either angle or turn before you get to the flats. Or weight the back foot to lift the nose just as you hit the flats - but really you shouldn’t be hitting the flats straight on unless the wave is just a total close out and you can’t go sideways (along the face) at all. That does sometimes happen, but it should be unusual. Angle the takeoff and start turning as soon as you pop up (just weight your toes slightly to trim around frontside)

If the whole board is sinking then that’s because you don’t have enough speed. This is almost certainly happening because you have gone straight down to face into the flats and are now way ahead of any power source. If the surfboard isn’t planing, it becomes a SUP. And 46l isn’t enough to support someone without sinking. Solution again is to stay on the face where the power is

Also don’t look down. I know you want to check the nose but looking down moves your head forward. Your head is heavy - you have just caused yourself to load up your front foot, which is the very thing causing the problem you are trying to avoid. Look where you want to go, not at the nose.

So
- you may need to weight the back foot more
- sounds like you definitely need to angle the take off and/or turn as soon as you pop up
- don’t look down. Look where you want to go

The most common reason for nose diving when you are paddling is that you are too far back on the board. What happens is you pearl so you figure you need to be more back on the board and this only makes it worse. If you are back on the board when paddling it pushes water and this slows you down then the wave jacks up the tail and pushes the nose under. Everyone else covered the nose diving after standing.

jeanp2020 wrote:I paddle straight to the beach while checking if the nose doesn't go under water

Paddle straight may or not be the problem, but WHY look at the nose to check if the nose goes under ?
What will you reaction be if it does ? What happens when it doesn't ?
What are you doing when you're checking ? paddling or grabbing the rails ?

jeanp2020 wrote: when I caught the wave I pop up look at the board for 2 seconds and than straight forward to make sure the nose is out of the water... But 90% of the time I nosedive anyways

Again, WHY are you looking down at the board and your feet ? For what reason / purpose will it serve ?
In those 2 precious seconds, Is the wave's shape and distance covered the same ?

Golden Rule I teach: WHERE YOU LOOK IS WHERE YOU GO. Look DOWN go Down. If you learn to look up and out you'll make it 90% of the time.

Others have commented on your forward weight bias on the deck. But look at your posture. Stand feet shoulders with apart in your surfing stance in the living room. Chin up and eyes up. Weight is distributed evenly front to back. Now look at you feet. Your head goes way forward past your butt and weight shifts onto the front foot.

Instead of looking at the nose, deck or feet, look at something way the hell in the distance. The eyes will draw the body along ( almost will it that way ). Do you stare at the bowling ball or the head pin ? Do you stare at your grips when you descend a steep drop on your mountain bike ?

jeanp2020 wrote:Something else, when I looked at the torq 6'3 they so told me it's a good beginner board my current board, the Bic is 46 liters and the torq is 36 liters... Would this board be a good step when I can make turns and actually generate speed since it's a fish?

Before Turns and generating speed, you need to learn how to set your rail and trim and break trim. But even before that you have to be able to Take off, make the drop and Bottom Turn. Currently you don't even have the basics of Positioning, Paddling and Pop up. Forget about getting a Fish for now ( or about 2 1/2 years )