Surfing Waves

I am going crazy. The waves have been massive huge and nice. The middle sandbar area where I prefer to surf and hasn't been good for a year or two looks awesome and huge. However I am still trying ti heal up my shoulder which I keep messing up either at work or working in the garden and the last time surfing grabbing the board and having it pulled away from me. So I have a new board and the waves are fantastic but I can't surf. Please pour some pity on me. Or tell me joke or whatever I just needed to vent. Sorry

Very sorry that shoulder is taking so long OMS!
Here's a little story that happened yesterday to me, hope it cheers u up a bit.
I went for a surf at my homebreak, Oldmans. What's in a name..
I always do an elaborated warming up in the house and finish that on the beach with some quick stretches, acting fitter than I am.
Then I like to swim for about a hundred meters doing breaststroke to warmup the legs, knees and hips mainly. Also lately I have a problem with my neck, a radiating pain into my left shoulder. I think it's from holding my head high during paddling, so every meter i can swim on my way to the 300 meter outside position, I can save my neck.
Yesterday I was early, the wind wasn't up jet, no chop and swimming felt better than ever before. Almost swam the whole distance.
That was when I noticed people looking at me in a bit funny way..
Sure a surfer that swims instead of paddles is a strange sight. So I kicked my leash leg to pull the board towards me and.. nothing happened.. no board, nothing.. Can you imagine my first thoughts?

I had to search some time before i got sight of the board floating, at least 100 meters away. I made up my mind what to do, if I swam in a straight line to the beach I risked losing the board as it was heading for a rip outside. So i set for a course to intercept the board, worked like a charm. My swim fitness is good. Also it was a small day so the currents where mellow.
But it was a beautiful day and the tide/swell/crowd factor was just right. Luckily i could rent a leash at the lokal club, and already tired from swimming went in again. And had some nice waves, the last one was a 300 meter ride all the way to the beach.

But most important lesson learned this time is leashes are not made for swimming.. The plastic connection of the ankle strap must have broken because of the repeating stress/movement of my kicking leg.

Here you go!


Try to focus on all the debris you'd have to dodge and the huge tidal swings this week...of course, all that probably gets you stoked.

Well I just got out of a 8.5 hour meeting and now have 3 hours until my flight that gets me home at 11 pm.

so not surfing is still an improvement on my life

Greetings from a 3 day business trip at Brussels airport, where i at 11pm return to my hotel and thinking about not surfing is a luxury. Apart from that my sympathy, as due to Achillodynie in my right foot and Plantarfasziitis in my left i cannot run since May and cannot Golf since November. Cannot wait for Easter and my trip to Peniche. All the best for your shoulder.

Got my shoulder operated on 1.5 years back. Very painful physical therapy recovery. 4-5 months of no snowboarding until comeback. PT'd for 1 year and now it's recovered well. So hang in there!

Ol' Man, please receive my sympathy. I've not been surfing since JAN 2018 with my good forum buddy, BaNZ. I just can't do it.

Let's apply some Bactine and a Band-Aid brand plaster on you. Or, some Gorilla tape and call it good.

My minor frustration is my original post to you vaporized. Within minutes of your request for sympathy, I composted a clever post written in half Hawaiian and half English. It said I'd be over in 3 days and would plant your garden. I'm sorry the message was not transmitted. But, know that I "heart" ya, Bra.

billie

Thanks for the support and pointing out to me that even though I may feel like I have it bad it could be worse. Not up to the planting stage yet. I need to empty out the compost pile and prep it for new compost then dig the compost from that into the beds, then plant. Planting is the easy part. Somewhere along the way cut down the palm tree my wife wants cut down. The only good thing is I can do all of this whenever since my life doesn't depend on it. Hey but it's been raining lately so I have an excuse for not working in the garden anyway. Rain stops me from gardening but not from surfing usually. I have spent this extra time not working in the garden or surfing reorganizing my favorites music list which is about 3000 songs long and got messed up by a computer crash. Got it all fixed just haven't added new favorites to it yet which I have built up quite a few since it's been a couple of years since the computer crash that messed it up. I have been so stoked to just see the waves. Life goes on.