The shorter the better

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The shorter the better

Postby Tudeo » Thu Nov 15, 2018 8:27 am

At age 55 (later in life serious beginner) I bought the shortest board I ever owned, a Firewire Chumlee 5'7. (5'7x 21" x2 7/16", 32.8L)

I was looking and reading about that board for some time until finally one showed up on the local 2nd marketplace for a very good price. The only downside, it was a smaller size than what I was looking for. At 6' and 76kg I was looking for a 5'9, or even a 5'11 to get enough 'groveller' volume. But I couldn't resist and jumped in.

I've surfed it 3 times in different waves and must say I'm very happy I took the risk of buying a board that could have been too hard to paddle. Still paddling is not easy, the trick is to just relax and safe energy. It took me some time to get comfortable in paddling position, and last session went much better. Now I can relax my legs by bending at the hips and weigh the trackpad with my knees, this also allows for a bit more forward position on the board. It is starting to feel like an extension of my body and paddling speed seems much better now.

Paddling in the wave is like a dream, every time I feel the wave pick me up that early It surprises me. Kicking helps! And the stability when popping up is great. From the first time I paddled for a wave I felt this was the right board for me. Up and riding immediately u feel the speed, also the speed surprises me compared to the wave I'm on, it goes in the weakest stuff. And the boardsize being smaller than I was looking for gives me more upper range, what is not a bad thing in Bali ;) I think it can handle overhead waves, as long not too hollow.

2nd time out was at low tide with steeper take offs that resulted in the 'bar of soap' effect on takeoff, the board, with it's 18.3" wide tail, just slipped from under me in all directions. But yesterday I took it to hightide shoulder high crumblers and it felt like it could handle much bigger waves. My back foot was in front of the trackpad most of the time to keep speed, and it turns good that way. But I feel there is so much more potential in this board if the waves are a bit bigger.

For me the beauty of a semi groveller like this is I can have maximum fun in waves that doesn't bother the crowd of better/fitter surfers to go out. Also with bigger swells it's a great board for sitting inside and ducking the biggies until the smaller, that nobody on the outside can catch, rolles thru.

The board came with a 5-fin set of Small FCS2 Performers. Until now I only tried it with these fins in quad setup, it feels ultra loose but I never had a slide out. For sure later I will do some experimenting with my FCS1 fins, I'm curious to see the difference with a large PC7 thruster set.

Let the small waves come!
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
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Re: The shorter the better

Postby oldmansurfer » Thu Nov 15, 2018 5:43 pm

That's great. I like my shortest board as well but it is a very long 7 foot compared to yours. I however haven't mastered the board I currently use yet (8 foot) even though I have already tried the 7 foot board in triple overhead waves and it seems okay. I think I just need more hours in the water. But until I feel the current board is limiting my surfing I will continue to use it as it is very versatile and better for the usual conditions and time limitations I have. So far the board I surf will do everything I want it to. Unfortunately the quality of waves in my usual break has decreased in the last couple years or I might have progressed enough to want to try another board. I may retire soon then all this will change.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: The shorter the better

Postby Tudeo » Fri Nov 16, 2018 2:03 am

Thanks! I feel I benefit a lot from using different boards. After being on my longboards for a couple of months, and struggling a bit with steeper overhead takeoffs, resulting in pearling or heartstopping almost pearling.. I went back to my 8'2 Submoon, that suddenly felt much easier on takeoff and looser than before. I had a lot of fun throwing it around and going rail to rail. But also felt the downside in paddling it around the lineup..

And now on this 5'7 I'm much more conscious of my foot position, and moving around on the board. For that I thank my time walking around on longboards. Only on the 5'7 it needs only a tiny step to change the trim, but the effect is the same as with a longboard.

oldmansurfer wrote:I may retire soon then all this will change.

Hey, that sounds good. Will you do a lot more surfing after retiring, you think? For me at age 55, 2x a week is about the best I can still handle. If I try to do more I get injuries, and do a lot less in the end..
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
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Re: The shorter the better

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Nov 16, 2018 2:43 am

I'm not sure because I am recovering from a shoulder injury that I got playing with my dog however it seems to be coming along okay so far improving a little every day or maybe every week in reality but improving so I am hopeful that I will be back to good shape and then I will see. One thing is sure and that is I will be able to surf when there are waves so that will be an improvement. However maybe I won't retire for a long time yet. Lots of things hanging right now. Have to wait and see what happens. I will be able to spend some and time pick my waves more and work on learning to read the break more since I often have to leave the surf before I have the days waves figured out. I won't have to go check my cellphone every half hour. The future is a big unknown right now
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: The shorter the better

Postby Tudeo » Fri Nov 16, 2018 3:12 am

I hope your future turns out good, you for sure earned plenty of karma helping people on this forum.

Can you already do gentle stretches or exercises on the shoulder? Doing very light yoga stretches and deep breathing thru it, helped my shoulders a lot. Now I'm injury free, I'm still doing it for prevention and fitness.
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Re: The shorter the better

Postby oldmansurfer » Fri Nov 16, 2018 3:18 am

I got these exercise bands and I am doing several exercises with them besides my usual just strengthening the shoulders. Still some pain but in a smaller and smaller range of motion where it feels painful. I have pretty good mobility always did.
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