Surfing Waves

I'm riding a clunky 8ft Wavestorm + single fin. Today I realized I can do a pretty cool angled frontside take-off with a bit of bottom turning!

My issue is, when the bottom turn takes me to the top (of maybe the whitewater catches up), I can't seem to get the board go back straight (it was pointing to the lip of the wave, which I think means I'm doing it correctly) towards shore. I just instinctively look + apply some pressure on heels, but this often results in me falling off.

I can go backside down the line take off without issues. (Compressed, look, point.)

Any tips for a Wavestormer?

It is the same "basic" technique to do a frontside turn / top turn on a softboard as it is on a hard board. But sometimes you need to milk the turn, wait for the flex to stop flexing or for the rail to pop back, etc. , on a softboard.

But I think it's might be the common mistake that you are thinking to turn back down too late. Before you even reach the top, you had to have already thought about it, sent that info down the nerves to the feet and executed the action as the board is still traveling upwards briefly. You're probably just getting stuck at the top.

Also remember that if you are heading up the wave and you weight your heels, the rail you are weighing (ie the left rail if you are a natural footer) isn’t actually the engaged rail. It’s just sticking out in the air. all you are doing is tilting the board, not turning. You need to bring the nose around (carve turn) not do a rail turn (trim).

Showing how outside rail is not engaged (so if you mean back, what are you leaning on? Air-then water as you fall off)



Showing how to turn and then engage (yes it’s a SUP but same principle)

had the same problem, you need to be further back on the board. If you can't cross-step, at least lean back when turning, and drop your back knee.

Also, a better board will be much easier to turn. I moved to a Torq 8'6" from a Bic 7'9" and I can whip that thing around much easier. Learning to turn on a crappy , slow board, will make you that much better when you transition.

waikikichan, dtc: thanks a bunch. These are great tips and I agree. Will practice next time. Question: does turning on a surfboard feels roughly equivalent to kick-turning on a skateboard? I.e., Weigh back foot, do a manual. This is something I can do on land

pmcaero: oh wow, are you saying although the Torq 8'6" is much longer than Bic 7'9", it's much more maneuverable? My plan is to keep learning on my Wavestorm and maybe buy a 7'6" funboard (NSP/Torq/Paragon) comes Black Friday sale.

I guess a complicating factor is I wear 3mm bootie. It’s hard to tell whether my back foot touches the foot patch or not (the right spot to be when turning?), especially there are many other things to pay attention to for a kook

Just think of it as a typical beginners problem and something you have to work on as do all beginners. Once you learn to bottom turn then you have to learn to turn the board back or you go off the wave either over the back or out of the power zone. It's something you can learn by paying attention and trying to turn quicker now you know you have to do so.

ConcreteVitamin wrote: Question: does turning on a surfboard feels roughly equivalent to kick-turning on a skateboard? I.e., Weigh back foot, do a manual.

NO. a manual is straight up and down pickup up the nose. A kick turn is a pivot around the axis of the rear truck. The top turn will more mimic the actions of a "Power Slide". You can't just Lean. You just can't Pivot.

If any of your buddies have a Carver or a front pivoting truck, try riding that. Those more closely resembles the type of body movements and torque for surfing on land.

One tip: look and point at where you want to go

So bottom turn, then look at the beach and point at the beach. Literally stick your index finger out and point at the beach (with a straight arm). It feels kooky but no one is watching and it works.

Don’t lean on the rail, the look and point will twist your upper body around and then your lower body will follow and so will the board

You only need to get the nose pointing slightly downhill (ie down the face); at that point gravity will help you continue the turn

Another tip is you don't need to go straight back up the wave. You pick where you want to go based on how the wave looks then aim there. Another tip is if you find learning to turn frustrating take a break and just ride some waves and only attempt to learn at a pace that suits yourself.

Read this thread with a focus on riding with a single fin.

https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35812