some days it's just about getting out

I went to check the long period swell on the East Coast. Waves were a bit bigger than what I normally surf - sets topping at 5ft , and knew it was going to be crowded and full of closeouts so wisely took my foamie shortboard.
I made it out during a lull and just enjoyed sitting in the lineup on a beautiful day. Swell was inconsistent and breaking all over the place. I still don't have the Odysea Catchsurf dialed in so I didn't catch any waves, but simply enjoyed being in the still warm water,the sunshine, the rarely ridden waves and the leaves starting to turn.
I made it out during a lull and just enjoyed sitting in the lineup on a beautiful day. Swell was inconsistent and breaking all over the place. I still don't have the Odysea Catchsurf dialed in so I didn't catch any waves, but simply enjoyed being in the still warm water,the sunshine, the rarely ridden waves and the leaves starting to turn.