some days it's just about getting out

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some days it's just about getting out

Postby pmcaero » Sun Sep 30, 2018 5:46 pm

I went to check the long period swell on the East Coast. Waves were a bit bigger than what I normally surf - sets topping at 5ft , and knew it was going to be crowded and full of closeouts so wisely took my foamie shortboard.
I made it out during a lull and just enjoyed sitting in the lineup on a beautiful day. Swell was inconsistent and breaking all over the place. I still don't have the Odysea Catchsurf dialed in so I didn't catch any waves, but simply enjoyed being in the still warm water,the sunshine, the rarely ridden waves and the leaves starting to turn.
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Re: some days it's just about getting out

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 30, 2018 7:24 pm

I just want a chance to catch some waves when I go out
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: some days it's just about getting out

Postby BoMan » Sun Sep 30, 2018 9:27 pm

Great attitude...and you never know when a fun one will roll-in!
"A person's sense of balance is measured by how he handles the unexpected." - Brian Herbert
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Re: some days it's just about getting out

Postby LostAtSea » Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:05 pm

I hear ya. I go out whenever I can, not when the forecast says. Ill surf any old slop that rolls in.

My standards are pretty low
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Re: some days it's just about getting out

Postby nooshie » Mon Oct 01, 2018 8:59 pm

I had the same thought on Saturday when I paddled out at Montauk for this long period swell we were graced with. The forecast called for 3-4ft but it was bigger than that lol. Definitely bigger than anything I had surfed before. I didn't catch a single wave that day as I was sitting super far out to get out of the way and avoid being caught by the big outside sets that rolled through every 20 minutes or so. Simply watched others and learned a lot about positioning. It was awesome to see so much great surfing up close. Paddling in and out in the larger surf was a lesson in and of itself!

I did go out again on Sunday (twice!) with the objective of actually catching some waves. It was more like 3-4ft and I had one of the best sessions I had ever had. It was so, so much fun and got some very long rides :)
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