Surfing Waves

Most people have a favourite board they take out more than the others, whats your go to everyday board?
I know it can depend on the conditions but just the one you have enjoyed the most.

It's a custom made 8 foot round pin that has a quad plus single fin set up. 8'x24"x3.75" I like it because it is versatile and allows me to ride waves of any size. I have 2 other boards that I like but rarely surf them because I like critical steep waves and when I get on one I want the right instincts to work since in critical situations you don't have time to think. Each board works differently especially in critical situations so I want to be entirely familiar with that board should a critical situation arrive. It helps me to learn at a maximum rate and I am time limited so that is important to me. I ride it as a quad although I have tried it as a thruster and don't change fins anymore.

I'm old (47), don't surf as much as I have been lately so fitness is an issue, competitive lineups and waves that can be on the bigger side as well as currents on the stronger side.......my go to all arounder that handles just about anything is an 8'2" x 23 x 3" 2+1 board from Hawaiian shaper Kimo Greene. Paddles well, takes steep drops, feels under control in heavier stuff, heavy glassed and big stringer to take a beating......this is the board that broke my jaw and it's still my favourite. I ride it as a single, single with small 3 1/4 side bites, a twin stabi with two large twin fins and a small 2.5" center fin and as a thruster using a 5" center fin. Single is usually for mellower surf or if I'm in the mood, 2+1 is the standard, thruster for heavier waves and rights and the twin I'm not sure yet but trying in all conditions.

I'm 6'1" and around 220lbs FWIW, and I don't duck dive this.