Surfing Waves

Tell us about the first time you rode a wave. Where...when...what was it like?

I had just learned to swim and was on a mat with my grandpa at the beach I still love. He pushed me into waves that would often break on my head and bounce me on the sand. I still remember his laugh as I stood up and got slammed by our Labrador retriever who had to make sure I was alright.

First time I rode a waves was bodysurfing but I don't exactly recall it. I swam and got boosted by the wave then pounded by the whitewater. First time I surfed on a board was due to this beachboy from the Kauai Surf hotel. My parents had a business near there and I would go to work with them in the summer then walk to the Kauai Surf by Kalapaki beach to get out of their hair. I met Percy who was a beachboy there and after getting to know him a bit I asked him to teach me to surf. He said not now he was working so I would ask him from time to time and his answer was always the same "Not now I am working." Then one day I am at Wailua beach when who should I see but Percy and his surfboard so I ask him to teach me to surf and he takes me out on his longboard which I could stand on without any waves because I am just a little kid and pushes me into two waves I rode both all the way to the beach. I can recall thinking that surfing was boring and unexciting and how when I bodysurfed at least I could feel the water rushing past me. LOL