Surfing Waves

Haven’t surfed for a long while because of some annoying injuries. Started again but on a slow path. And, a friend of mine claims that my ride in the video below is just white water and straight. I disagree. Could you please opine on this matter.

Why does it matter? LOL Looks to me like you are angled and riding in front of the whitewater on the face. But then again what difference does it make? You have a bet? How much are you going to pay me for saying this? LOL

Thanks:) no money involved. He was bitching too much about it. And, I am a bit insecure after a long break

GoPros make even waves like Mavericks look pretty ordinary.
So you turned and went across the wave before it broke, so green , it broke you couldn't drive past the white water to the shoulder, you weren't riding straight to the beach
Verdict not riding white water or straight, just not making it out of whitewater and wiping out!

If there was a shoulder to drive to, being further forward on the board may have given you enough speed to get to the shoulder, your body positioning was unstable enough with the leaning crouch to cause the wipe out!

You win the bet against your friend.

You can see the breaking peak behind you as you're going away from it. Arm positioning showing you're going front side. Not straight ahead.


You get to your feet and can see the open face in front and the breaking curl behind.


This is the shot that PROVES you're going across the face and NOT straight ahead. Water is coming only off the outside rail.


Now due to whatever factors, you drive out flat.


Wave closes out, runs away, hits the sand shelf, etc. Rolls over the deck and you get bucked off.

May have been a short ride, which you've may have been more riding than surfing, but you were NOT going straight in the whitewater.

Guys! many thanks for such detailed answers. I do appreciate it. You are great!

Standard question with your history, Any dings , breaks or injuries? The slight to your riding doesn’t count!
Cheers Jaffa