Surfing Waves

According to Lauren Ringer, a surf coach with the Inertia, we should keep our chins down when paddling for a wave. I do this if the wave is getting ahead of me but more often I will arch my back to keep from pearling. What say you?

When you’re paddling on flat water the length of your board planes through the water. Meanwhile, when you’re paddling for a wave the surface of the water is now curved. This creates an uneven weight distribution on your board, shifting the majority of your weight to the back of your board and causing drag. To combat this, simply push your chin towards the deck of your board. This helps distribute your weight forward and helps you to take off under the lip rather than on top of it.

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/11-hacks-to-get-beginner-surfers-into-more-waves/

I use my head to adjust to the situation but I never arch my back to keep from pearling. That just isn't a situation I see paddling (unless I hit a chop or backwash) I may put my head down if I feel I need more weight in front of the board (no need for jokes about having a big head because I just made one) or I may not if I am not worried about getting more weight on the front of the board.

I'm confused about a specified position, you should change your shoulder arch in response to what the board and wave are doing to trim the nose of the board up and down.

pmcaero wrote:I'm confused about a specified position, you should change your shoulder arch in response to what the board and wave are doing to trim the nose of the board up and down.

With more experience, I'm less inclined to follow "one size fits all" advice. It may not be a good idea to take 5 extra paddles before popping up, sit 20 feet outside the break, hold your chin down or arch your back. If I feel the nose dipping under water when I'm paddling for a wave, I will arch my back...otherwise I don't. It all depends on the conditions.

The amount of Rocker on the bottom of your board is just one component of the whole board design, just as Chin Down is one aspect of the paddle/take. Increasing or adjustment of one aspect, affects the others. Look closely at the photo, his back is arched Yes, but notice how high his arm is out of the water and probably only his wrist penetrate. The space left from his shoulder to deck could've been utilized. To get a good paddle you need to move a large amount of water. Better to move a large amount of water a short distance, than a small amount of water a long distance. To do that, you need to have your elbow under the water on each stroke. With his elbow out of the water, he's literally just scratching the surface. Chin Down, Back Arched, Feet on the Butt, Blah blah., what ever you do, dig deep elbow under the water ( and don't hold your breath )

I also put my head down but not necessarily pressing into the board when I am doing my "paddle like crazy" takeoff technique to get maximum reach.... this is usually reserved for bigger waves.

I find a dip at the last moment/few paddles can get into a wave that you might not quite be getting. Probably consistent with the advice to weight the nose/unweight the tail, get the board down the face

oooh, these comments are all really helpful for me! I usually keep my chin up when I'm paddling out because I don't want a wave to knock me in the face. When I'm paddling for waves though, I keep it down unless I'm starting to pearl (and then I arch up to try to save it) as it's easier to get my whole arm in the water (to Waikikichan's point). But what I notice when I start to get tired is I sort of bump my chin into the board when I pop up. Does anyone else experience this? It makes me wonder if my chin is too far down but it's just a little tap, nothing drastic.

kookRachelle wrote: I usually keep my chin up when I'm paddling out because I don't want a wave to knock me in the face.

But if you're already pressed up against the object, there's less momentum that develops. Like bracing for impact.

kookRachelle wrote:But what I notice when I start to get tired is I sort of bump my chin into the board when I pop up. It makes me wonder if my chin is too far down but it's just a little tap, nothing drastic.

Lay down on your stomach on your hard floor. Forehead touching the floor. Now look straight ahead, your'e probably resting on your chin. Now forehead down again, but now look to the right. Your mostly not on your chin ( and maybe can even get a little deeper paddle ). So don't look straight, don't go straight.

Also as you get tired you may be starting to grit / grind your teeth more. Hold your hand to your chin and then grit your teeth .......grrrrr ! It sticks out. Now calmly whistle, " whistle while you work ( surf ) fweet, fweet, fweet ..... fweet. Chin stays up. So breath, don't hold your breath or grit your teeth.

Really depends on the wave... When the waves are small and mushy I have to lower my chin to try to go down and not get hang up on the lip. I'd arch my back most of the time, however. I find it a lot more work and tiring to paddle and catch those ankle biters than waist-chest high waves.

There is no one paddle fits all technique.....but for the most part I paddle for a wave with my head and chest up then "dive" into the wave with my last paddle, lowering the chin while putting my hands on the board.....then I pop up.