Surfing Waves

My heart goes out to this guy on another forum. If you've ever felt this way, what did you do?

Lately it’s been really hard to get excited about surfing. I’ve been doing it for a few years but when I drive out, the waves are either trash or there’s a massive crowd out.. or both. Everywhere the vibe is aggressive, competitive, and low quality. If you’re trying to enjoy the surf, the atmosphere weighs you down. Do you guys ever get in a rut like this?

I've never felt bad about surfing but I ran into it a lot when I was training for marathons as a younger man. The prospect of a 10 mile run before a workday was too much at times. The solution was finding someone to train with. My friend's encouraging words - “lace up you pussy!” - always kept me going.

I never feel that way about surfing. If I did perhaps I would be doing some other thing. I think just being out in the water has it's own reward. Of course the water is a lot more friendly here on Kauai. The furthest you can be away from the ocean is about 25 miles....ok maybe 27.5 miles because the island is 55 miles across. No wetsuit required. I have found in my days surfing that crowds make me want to find somewhere else which often led me to better waves. I currently surf most days by myself in junk waves which I enjoy. It's challenging and good exercise. I feel invigorated after a surf.

oldmansurfer wrote:I have found in my days surfing that crowds make me want to find somewhere else which often led me to better waves. I currently surf most days by myself in junk waves which I enjoy. It's challenging and good exercise. I feel invigorated after a surf.

The vast majority of my sessions are at beach breaks where I can find less crowded peaks to take off. Like OMS, I've learned to have fun with lower quality waves and riding these helps me do a better job on the good ones. There have been a few times when it was so crowded I couldn't take off without running into someone or ride without colliding with people paddling out. On those days, I pulled out the skimboard and slid on the sand!

When the water is crowded where I surf there are many breaks and peaks. I look around for waves coming in with no one riding them and go there or pick a break with the least amount of competition for the waves. Often in sand breaks there are peaks that come in too wide for where everyone else is lining up and I will go to that spot and wait for that peak which isn't being ridden even though it is crowded.

You guys need to be content with what you have not what you don't have. Look at what I need to deal with !!

I get yelled at for NOT going straight.

waikikikichan wrote:You guys need to be content with what you have not what you don't have. Look at what I need to deal with !!

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I get yelled at for NOT going straight.

I avoid the Sunday afternoon like a plague, and that helps a ton with the crowds. Also I paddle out no matter the quality. There's always something to learn for me, at least I can exercise my paddling muscles, and having any opportunities to be in the ocean is better than none (and be thankful that I'm not living in the middle of a large continent.)