Surfing Waves

I'm new to all this, have wanted a board and a beach with waves since I was 14 -- 1964.

You can figure out the math.

Now I live at the beach, good health, reasonably fit, single, retired . . . $$$ comfortable. -- really comfortable. Nooooooooo . . . more comfortable than that.

Got a board, a 9' 4" Modern -- long, fat, wide. My first board. Decent O'Neil suit, 5/4 mil. And a cooler, grill, all the cook accessories.

Every day, I've been heading to the beach. If I don't suit up, I at least watch the surf, and talk to the surfers.

Tomorrow is supposed to be good, according to the wave predictors. Good waves, good weather.

But even if it sucks -- I get out on the beach, w/ binoculars, get to look at tide pools, babes w/ boards, sets, shore birds . . .

"Once the sand gets between your toes, there's no getting away from it." -- Some guy my age on "Step Into Liquid."

I get to live on the beach day in, day out. With the waves, the weather, the splendor of it all.

I eat. I drink. I'm totally stoked.

I shall force down my envy (jealousy is such an unattractive trait) and say..

well done that man, good on you

Its nice to see someone happy with their lot




Which reminds me, I really must retire to the beach as soon as possible

Am i too young to retire at 20?

Sounds ideal - personally i'd settle for "$$$comfortable" at the moment!!

im already to retire, and im not even out of school....where are you located wavejunkie?

WaveJunkie, i think my life is leaning towards the same direction as yours, I would kill to be in your shoes

So are you guys contract killers or something?

amen to that (not the contract killer thing haha)

tomcat360 wrote:im already to retire, and im not even out of school....where are you located wavejunkie?

Astoria, OR. USA.

North to south, more or less --

South Jetty, Ft. Stevens
"The Cove" -- Seaside, OR
Indian Beach, Ecola State Park
Short Sands, Oswald West State Park
North Nehalem, So. Neakhanie

There's more -- but you gotta be local. (Loco?)

Watched "Step Into Liquid" today -- OK, on my 65" JVC TV w/ Harmon Kardon stereo system, and 125 Watt sub-woof-woof . . . For about the fifth -- tenth time.

Spent most of the afternoon chanting the first music in this movie. The chant, the drums, it comes back into an extended motif in the rest of the movie.

Great stuff . . .

But mostly, mostly, that surfing is 2,000 yrs old, and invented by the Polynesians as "recreation" -- and the Polynesians had lots and lots of time to recreate.

It's not about "winning" or "scoring" but rather about "FUN" . . . "FUN" . . .

And I think the girls in the movie have the most fun. Because they're in it for the fun.

If there's a First Church of Surf -- The mantra is "Cowabunga!!!" and the life is on the beach.

"Surfing ain't a life or death thing. It's WAY bigger than all that!"

-- God I do love it so! Couldn't be happier.

WaveJunkie, i think you're the stoke-est guy in the forums!! u make me wanna ditch work and head out! i watched step into liquid like a thousand times too hahaha

dondiemand wrote:WaveJunkie, i think you're the stoke-est guy in the forums!! u make me wanna ditch work and head out! i watched step into liquid like a thousand times too hahaha

Yeah, and kids think that 57 yr old dudes aren't kids. *LMAO*

I get up in the morning, 15 minute from the beach. No boss, no place I gotta be. No sweetie-pie telling me I gotta show up for dinner . . .

And so, in the truck and to the beach. Any day of the week . . .

Cowabunga . . . *G*