Surfing Waves

So it was a sunny day in Bali and the break was pretty crowded................


(This could be made into a rubber stamp and stuck on the beginning of all surf stories from here......)



Anyway, a wave comes and 10 people paddle for it as usual.....I am deepest and I take the wave, only that I am immediately dropped in on the moment I get to my feet, forcing me to stall the board and get swallowed up by the whitewater ball...the perp was a skinny, beared and pasty skinned European who was trying to ride the wrong way (was a left and he was going right)....he accosted me after the wave passed....one finger in the air he said "I had priority position".......

I was disgusted since that had been a nice wave and had taken a little while to pick out.....I answered:
"LEFT!"

No, that was a right.

"LEFT!" I said again.

"Let's not fight" he said......"This isn't fighting yet" I said......


And now for the gold.....



He said "Anyway, I thought you were going straight."

I read on TheInertia there is a 1000 meter paddle to reach Impossibles outside. Is that an option to avoid crowds?

You get to surf a much more difficult break after that long paddle with the much more experienced and skilled crowd!

Hanalei has a break that is called Impossibles not quite as far of a paddle out unless it is really huge. But it is full of surfers of varying skill however I am sure the numbers drop off with the size at 10 foot Hawaiian it probably drops way off or at least surfers who are actually competing for the waves drops way off. I guess I am lucky that I love crappy surf as it is more relaxing and no drop ins

BoMan wrote:I read on TheInertia there is a 1000 meter paddle to reach Impossibles outside. Is that an option to avoid crowds?

There is a shorter way but only half (500m)....like Jaffa said skills are higher, waves bigger and fitness needs to be on point......and it’s still crowded.

Should be good today....in the afternoon the swell comes in....still small now.

https://www.surfline.com/surf-report/im ... d6a7708d42

It’s OK for surfing dogs to drop in!

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/surfing-dog-burns-santa-cruz-locals-but-no-one-cares/

Surfed Padang2 and paddled over to Impossibles today.....swell is small today and was relatively uncrowded....good call Bo!

I'm always happy to help with breaks I know nothing about.