How long did it take?

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How long did it take?

Postby JfetZ » Mon Aug 15, 2005 1:23 am

How long dit it take for you to get your drop ins down (mainly on bigger, stronger waves)? Hours in the water i mean. Im just curious because ill go straight for like a week and get a solid drop in and catching of the waves. Then not have time for about 2 weeks and i always seem to wimp out, fall, or nosedive of the drop in the first session and sometimes, its hard for me to catch a wave!
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Postby WaveJunkie » Mon Aug 15, 2005 4:59 am

Standing in a line, I always feel like I'm in "last place" unless there are people behind me.

OK -- I bought a board two weeks ago. I'm 57, have wanted a board since I was about 14.

A couple days out -- I can catch a wave and ride it in on my stomach. No problem. But it doesn't even begin to run through my head to stand up on the board.

I sit outside and wobble on the board like I'm wrestling a snake and standing on marbles.

There are those in line standing behind you. :lol:
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Postby sinistapenguin » Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:41 am

How long have you been surfing?

I was having a conversation with my brother in law about this - he's just come back from Newquay and he was pretty stoked even though the waves were only 1-2ft max.

The reason he was stoked was that he'd finally sussed out popping up - he knows he's got it sorted because he now doesn't know how he does it - he just get's up!

That's the difference, if you're still having to think about getting up then you're not going to be getting up quickly enough to make a decent sized drop.

It's normal to lose your bottle after not being in the water for a while, but you've just got to think- I did it last time or as I do - 'everyone else out here is making this drop and even when they wipeout, their not dying so what's to worry about!!'

You've got to just go for it!

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Postby JfetZ » Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:02 pm

i learned to surfwhen i was 11, but i only got to go a couple times during the summer. now im 15 and went almost all summer. Yea i know what you mean about just popping up. i dont think, but on the stronger waves, when i pop up, i just drop lose my balance sometimes and cant make a bottom turn. Sometimes i nosedive now but i think thats because i just got a new hybrid and am slowly trying to make the transition to shortboard. So therefore, havent found the exact paddling possition
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Postby sinistapenguin » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:05 am

When you pop up - STAY LOW - if you stand up too quickly you will lose your balance. Keep your centre of gravity as low as possible and you'll have a better chance!
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