Surfing Waves

I was padding out back when a set caught me inside. I paddled furiously to get over the waves before they broke in front of me. On one wave I got to the top and the lip started breaking over me so I punched my board through the lip and came out on the back of the wave. Nevertheless, the wave started sucking me back over the falls so I kept paddling to keep myself from going over. Just then, out of nowhere, this other surfer pops out of the water right next me. It scared the crap out of me The last thing I expected at that intense moment where I was on the brink of getting sucked backwards over the falls, was for some foreign living thing to suddenly pop out of the water inches away from me. The guy was just surfacing from his duck dive and must have been following close behind me. We both laughed because I think I freaked him out a little too. Anyway, another day surfing.

I went to FOGGY Dillon Beach yesterday and it was a pain to drive 15 mph over the last couple of miles but really fun once I got into the water. You never know what you're going to get.

It's good you both were able to have a laugh. Think that other guy needs to learn to keep some space between himself and others when paddling out though.

BoMan wrote:[ went to FOGGY Dillon Beach yesterday and it was a pain to drive 15 mph over the last couple of miles but really fun once I got into the water. You never know what you're going to get.

Next stage - night surfing!

BoMan wrote:
I went to FOGGY Dillon Beach yesterday and it was a pain to drive 15 mph over the last couple of miles but really fun once I got into the water. You never know what you're going to get.

I think I see you in the pit in that shot.

oldgrom22 wrote:It's good you both were able to have a laugh. Think that other guy needs to learn to keep some space between himself and others when paddling out though.

Yeah, that's true. I think we were both kind of following the rip out so we might have just got bunched up in the channel. I don't really know because he came out of nowhere really. I didn't expect him at all. I thought I had the peak to myself with other surfers on the peaks to the right and left of me. Anyway, I think it just goes to show that wherever you go . . . there you are.

A fun shortboard takeoff from the beach.
(Click the image to zoom)

BoMan wrote:A fun shortboard takeoff from the beach.

looks like a skimboarder

Can’t remember if I mentioned it but about a month ago a manta ray with about a 1.5m wingspan breached (fully jumped up clear of the water) 10m in front of me while sitting in the lineup. That made me skip a beat....