Surfing Waves

When I began surfing after a 30 year gap, I thought I would pick up where I left off like riding a bike. I pulled on the 2/1 mil wetsuit that kept me toasty in my 20’s and froze my @$$ off. Also had an issue or two getting into it. I hopped on my 6’11” board and couldn’t catch a ride. Too much ballast, too little strength and no memory of how to read waves. I could have quit that first day but I’m glad I didn’t. Here are some reasons why…

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/10-things-surfing-never-lets-me-forget-about-life/

What's in it for you?

I surf because I love to surf. If I need another reason then it is because it helps to keep me healthy physically and mentally. It was much more difficult learning to surf after quitting for 12 years because I had gotten older, overweight and out of shape. Surfing has helped with one of those problems.

1) too short for Basketball
2) too small for Football
3) not good with my legs for Soccer
4) not good with a racket or bat
5) not rich enough to Golf

Because it was my destiny.

I love the coastline. Every new break, beach, lineup, etc. is another explosion of sensation awaiting the surfer who decides to wade into them. From surfing in the arctic to central Los Angeles, you're guaranteed to encounter pirates or buried treasure somewhere along the way.

oldmansurfer wrote:I surf because... it helps to keep me healthy physically and mentally.

Exactly, It's a lifestyle. Everyday I do something FUN to get ready for the next session - jogging, bicycling, swimming, skating and learning from all of you.

oldmansurfer wrote:I surf because I love to surf. If I need another reason then it is because it helps to keep me healthy physically and mentally. It was much more difficult learning to surf after quitting for 12 years because I had gotten older, overweight and out of shape. Surfing has helped with one of those problems.

There's only one cure for getting old that I know of and that's fitness--mental and physical. Use it or lose it. .

Unfortunately there's no cure for getting old, but you can slow it down. Surfing is perfect for that.

Food for thought.

https://www.npr.org/sections/health-sho ... k-of-death

I'm a beginner and I surf because it's fun and there's always something new to learn. Even on my first lesson when I was just riding small mushy waves lying on the board I still absolutely loved it - it had an instant appeal to me and gave me a grin from ear to ear that I still have now every time I go surfing.

I do lots of other sports as well: every week in season I go windsurfing, flat water SUPing, running, cycling, swimming, and hiking; and for almost twenty years now motor racing has been a passion of mine, but it's so expensive that sadly I only get out a few times a year. I also have lots of other non-sporty hobbies, mainly surrounding music, which is probably my biggest passion in life.

The reason I list all those other things I do is to explain that I just see my life as an opportunity to experience as much as I can and achieve smiles and satisfaction when I can.

I figured it's the easiest way to annoy people

I'm really not a hippy dippy person at all, but surfing for me awakened my soul and changed my perspective on everything. It gave me the courage to be fiercely independent, to seek a divorce, it inspired me to want to move out west (work in progress), it has brought me amazing friendships with some incredible people, it has taught me to trust, it has also inspired me to be more conscious about the environment and volunteer in my community, and has definitely lead to me being more spiritual.

I get giddy every single time I see the ocean. My stomach flips the first time I paddle out. I am finally calm and quiet floating around out there, nothing can touch me in that moment. And when I finally get up on a wave, I am reminded that I can do absolutely anything.

kookRachelle wrote:I'm really not a hippy dippy person at all, but surfing for me awakened my soul and changed my perspective on everything. It gave me the courage to be fiercely independent, to seek a divorce, it inspired me to want to move out west (work in progress), it has brought me amazing friendships with some incredible people, it has taught me to trust, it has also inspired me to be more conscious about the environment and volunteer in my community, and has definitely lead to me being more spiritual.

I get giddy every single time I see the ocean. My stomach flips the first time I paddle out. I am finally calm and quiet floating around out there, nothing can touch me in that moment. And when I finally get up on a wave, I am reminded that I can do absolutely anything.

The gateway to true hippy dippy surfing is Bolinas. Once you start going north from there every surf break is like a new Grateful Dead concert. I've been meaning to get up there myself one of these days.

Mellow vibe at Bo…and fun waves with a southern swell.

Surfing has brought back who I really was before all the daily grind has gotten the better of me. It makes my life balanced and whole. That and I just can't get enough of the ocean and its waves around me.