Surfing Waves

What yall think of that phrase? Had some pretty mixed opinions from other peeps.

Unless there is a contest then it is probably true

That quote is attributed to the "Father of modern day surfing" Duke Kahanamoku. So please give credit where credit is due.

I understand where you're getting mixed opinions as a lot of times the guy "just trying to have some fun" is spoiling it for others.

I think it's absolutely true, and translates to almost anything as well.

Obviously as long as the person knows his/her place and doesn't step on anyone's toes.

Everyone was a kook at one point or another.... or still is!!!

Unless you are in a contest where you need to score points surfing is about having fun. There is no need to compare yourself to others but if someone is having more fun then you then they are surfing better than you because it's about having fun. I guess though if you really consider it people surf for a lot of different reasons. One would hope they all have fun doing it but I guess not necessarily. For most though it is about having fun.

Because I spend most of the time not riding my board, I find ways to enjoy paddling and waiting. It's fun to...

* Plan the timing and line of least resistance out back, and make it happen without getting my head wet.
* Figure out how many waves are in a set and use the info to avoid getting crushed when paddling out after a ride.
* Find the peak that no one else sees especially when it's outside.
* Watch anyone on a good ride - especially when I can learn something.
* Check out the wildlife - dolphins, seals, pelicans and RC surfers.

Lastly it's great to simply be in the ocean.