mellow

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mellow

Postby pmcaero » Wed Nov 01, 2017 12:45 am

On a backside ride today I ended up in what I believe was a reform, and on both sides of me the wave was green as far as I could see...also no peak or shoulder. Yet I didn't stall.
Now I know on a longboard you can ride small unbroken waves but that's never happened to me before. Since I ride a funboard. I have to stay closer to the pocket.
Anyway, always fun to experience something new. :D
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Re: mellow

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:42 pm

That is great. I think people often underestimate the ability of a smaller board to ride unbroken waves. You just need to be on the right spot on the board and the right spot on the wave.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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