Surfing Waves

How often do you guys get your asses kicked while paddling out. I went out today in choppy waist-chest high sets and go beat up on my way out. My board (7'2", 21 1/2", 2 3/8") wont duck dive so I bailed on a wave that was going to crash on me. As soon as I get ready to hop back on my board to paddle out, another wave lands right on me. I think I am going to stick to clean, waist-high waves until I get a smaller board. It really sucks to have to be selective while still trying to learn but I really only have fun on the small & clean stuff. What are your feelings on this?

i get my ass kicked in anything above waist or chest high when im paddling out its somethin i have come to get used to

So how do you get out each time? Today I got slammed by a wave so I bailed and went under. I got slammed by a few more before grabbing my board and paddling passed the breaks. It must be nice to ride a shortboard and be able to go under waves.

What size board?

I would argue that your board could be duckdived. I can duckdive my 7'5 x 21 x 2 3/8 mini-mal.

My friend can duckdive his 9'6 longboard (to a degree!!)

The problem is that it's really hard to get the duckdive technique right but you can get it with practise.

I can do it, but I still get drilled fairly often when I get it wrong. But a shorter board isn't necessarily going to solve the problem, I was the same on my old 6'6 x 18 x 2 thruster!!

What I used to do (and still do in bigger waves)is paddle to the impact zone. then get off my board and grab the 'tail protector' part of my leash. I then swim towards the breaking waves, duck under and pull down on the tail to bring the board under with me.

It 'aint pretty, but it works!!

Sinista

Yep i'd have to agree Sinista, Brent can duckdive my 7' minimal. I can't because i'm nowhere near ready to try but he manages fine. And yes that does mean that i've seen B on a minimal . Don't tell him i told you though

Yes, it can be done. I rode a mini mal for the first time 2 weeks ago....the trick is to duck-dive it earlier.. actually, I find it easier to d-dive a longer board, you can use forward momentum to take it down. The trick is be forceful with your push down at the start. The rest is just like a shortboard... but this is a 7' 21" 2 5/8 mini-mal...not an aircraft carrier...

There's nothing wrong with Mini-Mals!!

I spent 11 years on a shortboard and have now progressed to a mini-mal!

yes that does mean that i've seen B on a minimal

Well then maybe it's just my tecnique. Either way I gotta figure out something to be able to handle bigger waves crashing on me.

Actually, it was all in the name of research!!!!
Some differences I noted, yes they're easier to paddle, but being heavier you have to start paddling earlier to catch a wave and with the extra length I can't give a couple of kicks as well to catch a wave as I would normally on a shortboard.
I do prefer a shortboard personally as everything happens quicker
Neither is better...just different ways to have similar sorts of fun :-)))
...how's that for diplomatic ??

brent with bigger boards though you can punch and go, and get into waves without having to paddle and take longer to get going...

I can duckdive my sevener...

The best boards to duckdive are long low-volume gun-type boards, the leverage from the length & the low volume-ness are wonderful. Riding a Mini-Mal for the first time in my life 2 weeks ago I was able to d-dive it. But only cause I knew how to do it properly to start with.

The 'best' boards to duckdive are body boards, but who'd want one of them!!

bboards? no they're like imposible to duckdive,they're too short, you can't get your knee or foot on them and they usally just roll you over and get you nowhere.

but I agree with brent about the mini guns being easiest