Surfing Waves

The last days here in SW France we had small fun waves at 2-3 ft with no wind and sunshine, so the lineup was pretty full. In my afternoon session today, I was overtaken paddling out by a youngster on a longboard. Just as he passed me, the waves got a bit bigger but there was still time to paddle over the shoulder. But he did not do that. Instead he dove under the wave and abandonded his board, which hit me hard on the head, creating a significant cut that caused lots pf bleeding. I came to my family on the beach with blood spilling over my face, wetsuit and board and they were quite shocked. The good news it does not seem to be serious - a doctor took care about it and it should be ok in a few days, but i am quite angry, especially as the guy did not even check how I was and it means I will be missing at least three surfing days.

I have learned my lesson not to expect security awareness from fellow surfers and try to keep more distamce myself, but in this situation it actually would have been difficult. How do you keep the distance of others do not care and get close to you?

Anticipation and be more bullish is what I do....the kid who bailed his board is at fault, but you have to assume that might happen and either stay clear or keep the kid clear and protect yourself. In the end it's up to you to keep safe in a crowd because as illustrated, no one else is going to do it for you.

Paddling back out like you describe, if someone tries to go across my line I block them off and tell them to get away from me......

Sorry to hear such a shitty thing happened to u Oldie. Yeah in the end it's all up to ur own responsibility, but how good u take care off urself accidents will always happen, especially in crowds. It's all part of the price we pay to ride waves..

I try like heck not to be in that position because I am worried they may whip around and try to takeoff. Ouch!

yep, never paddle behind someone when heading out. Never!

And by 'behind' I mean anywhere that is within 180 degrees of them and at least the distance of their board tripled (ie board plus leash plus their leg plus them being pushed back if they have bailed). That can be 20ft or more on a longboard.

if people do paddle past then I head way right or left (depending on the wave) or speed up to stay next to them.

Unfortunately its a lesson learnt for you - you werent in the wrong but its a common risk. Even people trying to do the right thing can lose their grip turtling or stuff up a duck dive

Big H wrote:Anticipation and be more bullish is what I do....the kid who bailed his board is at fault, but you have to assume that might happen and either stay clear or keep the kid clear and protect yourself.

I had a close call with a SUP. When I decided to takeoff the wave looked clear but then the other rider suddenly appeared and ripped in front just as I was getting to my feet. The near miss was my fault. Since then I always do a 360 scan before paddling and look over both shoulders as I go. Several times the shoulder peek has helped me avoid collisions.

Big H posted a graphic comparing the newbee's view of the ocean with an experienced surfer. The novice only sees the board's nose while the veteran pays attention to everything. It was a good reminder for me.