Surfing Waves

Hi all, today was one of those days i stumbled on something i have observed for a while. A slight offshore breeze together with an outgoing tide meant everybody had to work to stay in position. But in those situations I feel that i am drifting much faster than everybody else. I wonder wether it is my height (6.3) that gives more surface to the wind or wether it is the way i sit on my 8.4 mini longboard or something else. I want to save some energy and wonder wheter there are some tips on how to reduce drift. I.e does it make a difference whether the board lies flat or pointing out with the nose etc? Thanks!

There two things that cause drift and one is current and the other is wind. The more your board floats you above the water the more wind will drift you so laying down on your board will help a little with that. The smaller the sail you provide for the wind to push against the less it can push. Current should affect all the same but I think if you point your board into the current you drift less from the current. The reason is this when you sit on your board the tail is lower than the front (I don't ride those low volume boards) so the current will hit the nose of your board and run under it. The board will resist going back because it will cause the tail to dig deeper. Lately I have been surfing at a spot where there is lots of sideways current so I point the board into the current and if nothing else I am ready to paddle to the side again at any moment If wind is the cause then sitting with your board pointing into the wind will also help and if it's the two a compromise between pointing into the wind and into the current. I think a good portion of my surfing is done in areas with lots of current. The break that I love to surf most has been flat lately so no waves but when it is up the current runs right long the lineup so I usually just stop paddling before I get to the lineup and the current will sweep me through it. The wind is rarely a greater factor in causing me to drift and it is usually onshore so makes me go closer to the shore. I guess that you were drifting out to sea? So you would have to point your board toward the shore and look over your shoulder. In my old age that is difficult to do. Catch waves quickly so you have less time to drift out of the lineup

On a big board I push further back than usual and sink the tail to counter drift....creates more drag so you get pushed less. I also stay active and paddle....big board means more push from the drift but also easier paddling to keep up with the sweep.

It's hard to know where you are ( situational awareness ) if all that is around you is the open sea. Normally I tell people to not find yourself sitting in "the Box". When you're in the box, there's a surfer(s) positioned below, above and to the sides of you. That's not good, if you want to get priority on the wave or not get blocked when you do go. But if you're "drifting", purposely put yourself in the box. You'll be aware when you're moving and sometimes the people around you will act as a wind block.
Another thing I would do, when paddling back to the peak is to STOP before you get to the pack. Use the off-shore or rip to assist you in bringing you back. Saves energy. If you just caught the last wave of the set, and the next one is a few minutes away, why paddle all the way out, to have to just paddle back in again ?

You could sit with the nose lower than the tail pointed out to sea....I guess.... never tried it. Be careful you don't shoot your board back at someone if you try it. Then you would have to adjust position whip around and catch the wave.

oldmansurfer wrote:You could sit with the nose lower than the tail pointed out to sea....I guess.... never tried it. Be careful you don't shoot your board back at someone if you try it.

the imagery!