Surfing Waves

Hi! I am a female, I surf once a week in mostly 2-4 ft waves (C-street in Ventura mostly) and I'm looking to buy my next board. The problem is that I have terrible upper body strength. My technique has improved a lot in the 1.5 years I've been going out regularly and that has helped a lot, but I still don't have great power. I'm also 34, 5'8" and 125lbs, so not a great amount of weight. My current board is 8'6" epoxy, wide, thick, awesome for learning. I've started working on turns etc. I can generally get on waves with this board, the really crumbly ones I struggle with though. I don't know what to get next as this board is (or has already.. hello water logged board!) met the end of its lives. I love long boarding, would love to start walking properly and getting my turns better, plus the waves are usually 2-4ft where I go! BUT I really don't like taking a long board out in anything above 4ft as I struggle to control all that volume... also, I really do dream of being able to go out in bigger waves and get the drop in! I looked at a really nice 9' longboard with a round nose and a bit of rocker, but I'm afraid 9' might be too long for me as soon as the waves are bigger... and what do I get to start moving down to a shortboard if my paddling is a problem? I tried a 6'6" foamy once and I won't lie, it was kinda fun and awesome. Is that good idea though? Also I know that moving down will be a struggle, I'm prepared to go back to sucking for a while to learn it...

Getting a new board won't teach how to get out through the surf. You can learn with the board you have or with a 9 foot board which might actually be better because you will paddle faster. But if you enjoyed the 6'6" foamy board why not try that? However if you sucked with that board then figure that you will still suck with that board and still not be able to get out through the surf with that board (in all likelihood). The most important lesson to learn getting out through the surf is how to avoid getting pounded and this can be learned on any sized board though there will be plusses and minuses for each board. Since you have terrible upper body strength a smaller board will be much more difficult for you to catch waves with and slower to paddle out. However riding bigger waves with a bigger board is definitely possible. Learning to take a drop on an unbroken wave is a skill you can learn. I wonder why you think you need a new board? It sounds to me like you still need to learn to use the one you have. So one thing is to improve your upper body strength and fitness and another is to learn skills. With both of those things any board or wave is possible however until that happens it may challenge you greatly to try a shorter board or bigger waves (regardless of board size).

Since you're already on a 8'6", I think a new/used 8'2" - 8'4" mini-mal, mini-tanker that is not waterlogged will be fine. Going to a 7'10" funboard might be a little to hard with the added rocker. And yes, you can walk and noseride a 8'0" especially at your weight of 125 lbs.
When you rode that 6'6" foamy, were you getting to your knee(s) then popping up ? If you could pop straight up to your feet then maybe looking at a 7'6" - 7'10" might be okay.
Anyways getting off that waterlogged board will help tremendously during the paddle. It's like riding a bike with flat tires.

Whatever board you get in the future make sure you don't let it get waterlogged or just repeat the same experience with this one.

waikikikichan wrote:Since you're already on a 8'6", I think a new/used 8'2" - 8'4" mini-mal, mini-tanker that is not waterlogged will be fine.

I agree. The best way to build skill is time in the water and wave count. More rides provide more experience with what works and what doesn't. A board like WKKK recommends will give you more practice than a shorter board.

I build padding strength by swimming laps in a pool and using resistance bands in my home. DTC is one of our regulars who is a great resource crafting swim workouts for surfing.

If you are worried about 4 foot waves being too big for your longboard, use Magic Seaweed to plan sessions when the surf is smaller.

http://magicseaweed.com/California-Street-C-Street-Surf-Report/275/

waikikikichan wrote:Since you're already on a 8'6", I think a new/used 8'2" - 8'4" mini-mal, mini-tanker that is not waterlogged will be fine. Going to a 7'10" funboard might be a little to hard with the added rocker.

This is so true. I had/have a 8' mini tanker and a 7'10" fun shape and my experiences matche waikikikichan's comment.

I'm a bit shorter than you and I've been surfing for a little over 2 years, once a week on average. I started surfing on a 9' board which is pretty heavy due to all the big repairs done unprofessionally (by me... was my first board to learn to fix properly). I've taken it out on all kinds of days up to around 4-5 feet. (Actually, 6-8' day once. Caught 1 wave and came in. I really didn't want to get caught inside. Shudder) The nice thing about it is it paddles so well once it gets going. I've given that to my kid who is learning and now I primarily ride another 9' board that is lighter with a bit more rocker and I'd be quite comfortable taking it out on any day. Still I miss the glide of my old board. Anyway, longer boards paddle better so make it easier to get out back on bigger days while letting you catch weak waves on smaller days.

The thing about the shorter boards is that paddling gets so much more labor intensive. Plus they don't glide as well while trimming down the line. I guess that's why you need more than 1 board. I do like the feel of a shorter board that moves with me like it's a part of my body. I have a 6'8 walden cd that I haven't ridden that often because partly the waves are pretty small right now and partly I need to work on all the skills so it's going to have to wait for a bit. But it's so responsive and I feel more in control of the board once I'm riding it.

Oh, I do have a 8'6" mini longboard for another kid that I take out often enough which is pretty much the scaled down version of my new (to me) 9'. Honestly, as much as I sense some miner differences between them in terms of paddling and the rides, the handling it in the waves (or a walk to and from the beach) is pretty much the same. So there are some nimble all purpose longboards out there.

Since you are in Ventura, how about Walden mini magic in mid 7' range if you are keen on going short? They look so easy to paddle. But really shapes and dimensions of the board affect the ride and the handling, not just the length.

SpaghettiStraps wrote:Hi! I am a female, I surf once a week in mostly 2-4 ft waves (C-street in Ventura mostly) and I'm looking to buy my next board. The problem is that I have terrible upper body strength. My technique has improved a lot in the 1.5 years I've been going out regularly and that has helped a lot, but I still don't have great power. I'm also 34, 5'8" and 125lbs, so not a great amount of weight. My current board is 8'6" epoxy, wide, thick, awesome for learning. I've started working on turns etc. I can generally get on waves with this board, the really crumbly ones I struggle with though. I don't know what to get next as this board is (or has already.. hello water logged board!) met the end of its lives. I love long boarding, would love to start walking properly and getting my turns better, plus the waves are usually 2-4ft where I go! BUT I really don't like taking a long board out in anything above 4ft as I struggle to control all that volume... also, I really do dream of being able to go out in bigger waves and get the drop in! I looked at a really nice 9' longboard with a round nose and a bit of rocker, but I'm afraid 9' might be too long for me as soon as the waves are bigger... and what do I get to start moving down to a shortboard if my paddling is a problem? I tried a 6'6" foamy once and I won't lie, it was kinda fun and awesome. Is that good idea though? Also I know that moving down will be a struggle, I'm prepared to go back to sucking for a while to learn it...

SpaghettiStraps, I know where you surf! Sometimes I surf there, too. Other than sharing the stoke, I offer nothing of benefit for your queries. billie

Hi Spaghetti Straps!

Some sound advice here. Although to me it seems like you need to just spend more time in the water and get your fitness up. Your paddle power will benefit massively from surfing more but if you're limited to when you can surf then there's plenty of surf specific workouts you can do. I just googled and found this:



Seems pretty spot on, but Im sure there's many more videos out there. The stronger and fitter you are the better you'll surf - no question. Obviously combined with surfing more I'd also suggest trying out more boards. It seems like you're struggling which direction to go. There's no surfboard for all conditions - so like any avid surfer - buy a few boards! Big, long, short, fat, small or whatever tickles your fancy. A healthy quiver is a must! If you cant afford another new board - buy used! Plenty of places to buy on online like secondhandboards.com so you dont have to spend a fortune. The most important thing is to keep fit & surf as often as possible. Trying a few different boards out along the way will be fun and you'll soon realise what works for you and what doesnt!! Good luck!

I have found going shorter has improved my fitness, strength and paddling more in 5 weeks than in the last 6 months on a long board.

The reason for this is on my longboard I found that I would time it right and just shoot out back taking me about 5 minutes, because I'm that little bit slower on my shorter board I can't get out back inbetween the sets so I have to go through at least a few waves and I may have to paddle for 10 minutes instead. Even when out the back just trying to keep in the same spot you end up paddling twice as much.

What you really want to work on though no matter what board you get is getting out the back. How do you get out the back now? Turtle rolling? Just keep practicing that even if you don't need to turtle roll do 1 then 2 then 3 on the way back out so you get used to doing it then slowly start building up what you go out in.

That's what I did my limit was 3-4 ft then I found I was getting out back in 6ft and yesterday I got out the back in 8ft (after about 10-15 minutes of paddling and a couple of little beatings) the problem then is catching these massive waves my bottle goes and yesterday the waves got bigger and bigger and I ended up getting absolutely pounded by 10ft+ waves (one of my surf instructors said a good solid 10-12ft) lucky for me a thunder and lightning storm came and they called the lesson off so we paddled back in just after the biggest set I have ever seen rolled through!

Millsy82 wrote: yesterday the waves got bigger and bigger and I ended up getting absolutely pounded by 10ft+ waves (one of my surf instructors said a good solid 10-12ft)

So say you're around less than 6 ft. tall, you were taking lessons in double over head sized waves ? I know you're talking California scale, but even in Hawaiian scale 4-6 ft. , I don't see how a student on lesson could survive.

waikikikichan wrote:

Millsy82 wrote: yesterday the waves got bigger and bigger and I ended up getting absolutely pounded by 10ft+ waves (one of my surf instructors said a good solid 10-12ft)

So say you're around less than 6 ft. tall, you were taking lessons in double over head sized waves ? I know you're talking California scale, but even in Hawaiian scale 4-6 ft. , I don't see how a student on lesson could survive.

When we got off I said to the instructor how big was that he said a good solid 6ft to which I replied really it felt a hell of a lot bigger then he said that is from the back from the front he said between 10-12ft faces and a good solid double over head. I did reply that's probably why I was crapping myself. When I first paddled out though it was probably 6-8ft faces and I am comfortable up to 6ftish and have caught quite a few above that but I do tend to bottle it a lot.

Out of the whole group of us who were on the lesson there were only 2 student s that made it out the back and I would say both of us are solid intermediate surfers but it is not something I will be rushing out to do again in a hurry.

waikikikichan wrote:you were taking lessons in double over head sized waves ? I know you're talking California scale, but even in Hawaiian scale 4-6 ft. , I don't see how a student on lesson could survive.

I've seen it here at Batu Bolong, thick pack of learners out in 2oh-day. But they stay on the inside for reforms and whitewater.

But still, there is a lot of scattered reef over there and the beach dump can be heavy!

Come on:) no 12 in Southern California:)
Especially a couple of days ago
4 at most. Pretty smal recently
I check county line that is quite close to C street on daily basis. Don't remember anything outrageous.

OlegLupusov wrote:Come on:) no 12 in Southern California:)
Especially a couple of days ago
4 at most. Pretty smal recently
I check county line that is quite close to C street on daily basis. Don't remember anything outrageous.

Not sure if that is aimed at me.

I'm not in California I'm in the UK. It was forecast 6-8 ft not sure if it was because it was an extremely low tide just jacked it up that bit more or if it was because a storm rolled in. Or it might just be that magic seaweed is pretty much useless around me I've been out in forecast 3-4 ft that have been 2 ft at best or then I have been out in 3-4 ft that are more like 6 ft.

Tudeo wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:you were taking lessons in double over head sized waves ? I know you're talking California scale, but even in Hawaiian scale 4-6 ft. , I don't see how a student on lesson could survive.

I've seen it here at Batu Bolong, thick pack of learners out in 2oh-day. But they stay on the inside for reforms and whitewater.

But still, there is a lot of scattered reef over there and the beach dump can be heavy!

I have seen them out back on bigger days.....none of them take waves though....mainly they try not to get sucked to the peak and caught inside. DOH balangan is different than DOH Batu bolong....head high at balangan gets the lesson crowd out of the water.

Sorry. Confused you with the topic starter. I just knew her spot quite well and was stunned with the alleged wave size.
Sorry once again. Never surfed in the U.K.

Big H wrote:head high at balangan gets the lesson crowd out of the water.

Ha! I must go there again one of these days, it's not the distance but that traffic... Haven't surfed the Bukit for over a year..