For the froth of it
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:51 amHey guys
I was out again yesterday, testing my new 8'5 starboard that I showed last week but this time as a quad.
The conditions were a wide open beach break, fairly close-out banks and 1-3ft off shore conditions.
A bunch of about 10 surfers were huddled up around a pretty average peak so I shifted down the beach and found my own peak. Everything from knee high slappers to a slightly overhead and solid sets came through. Set after Set, I must've had 20-30 waves plus! Not a single person at my peak and just having the time of my life. I started getting spray on re-entries on my frontside.
After about an hour, my mate paddled over and said 'dude! this break is soo much better than over there' and we started sharing the waves. I could see sets in the distance and would give him a heads up about when something good was coming.
After the surf he said 'mate, I think you got the wave of the day. I remember seeing that big set come through towards your peak and just watched you fully leant over along the wave face as it started to barrel and then cutting back down. I wish I had taken a photograph, it was beautiful'. He then said, "I felt sorry for some of those dudes, they only got like 2 waves in 2 hours.
Putting surf vs sup aside, that comment brought out the philosophical thoughts of why we all started surfing in the first place- To get out on the ocean, have some fun, challenge yourself and get some waves. Without waves I don't think any of us would still be out there.
I remember having many days like those surfers, where you just don't get many waves for whatever reason (wrong place wrong time, not the right board for the conditions, not skilled enough the conditions etc), and at the end of each session all you'd be looking for was that 'froth', like you experienced for the first time. Sometimes not getting it, and just being frustrated.
Yesterday took me back to that feeling, just pure froth and happiness where all you think about when you're going to sleep are the waves you caught that day and how amazing it felt. At it's essence, supping has given that back to me. I can't remember the last sup-session where I wasn't frothing at the end of it. It's given me wave count and length of waves like a longboard but with turns and challenge like a shortboard. Almost on par with that, is just an entirely new skill set to learn and how good it makes you feel when you start mastering each bit by bit.
My mate said it was one of his more memorable surfs yesterday and couldn't believe how well I 'surfed', like a shortboarder on my sup.
Interesting enough, it went pretty averagely as a quad compared to my 8'6 board that was way better as a quad.
I'm hoping to get out tomorrow in overhead conditions for the first time and really push it.
Just wanted to share the froth, I reckon i'll be allowed to shortboard again in less than 2 months
I was out again yesterday, testing my new 8'5 starboard that I showed last week but this time as a quad.
The conditions were a wide open beach break, fairly close-out banks and 1-3ft off shore conditions.
A bunch of about 10 surfers were huddled up around a pretty average peak so I shifted down the beach and found my own peak. Everything from knee high slappers to a slightly overhead and solid sets came through. Set after Set, I must've had 20-30 waves plus! Not a single person at my peak and just having the time of my life. I started getting spray on re-entries on my frontside.
After about an hour, my mate paddled over and said 'dude! this break is soo much better than over there' and we started sharing the waves. I could see sets in the distance and would give him a heads up about when something good was coming.
After the surf he said 'mate, I think you got the wave of the day. I remember seeing that big set come through towards your peak and just watched you fully leant over along the wave face as it started to barrel and then cutting back down. I wish I had taken a photograph, it was beautiful'. He then said, "I felt sorry for some of those dudes, they only got like 2 waves in 2 hours.
Putting surf vs sup aside, that comment brought out the philosophical thoughts of why we all started surfing in the first place- To get out on the ocean, have some fun, challenge yourself and get some waves. Without waves I don't think any of us would still be out there.
I remember having many days like those surfers, where you just don't get many waves for whatever reason (wrong place wrong time, not the right board for the conditions, not skilled enough the conditions etc), and at the end of each session all you'd be looking for was that 'froth', like you experienced for the first time. Sometimes not getting it, and just being frustrated.
Yesterday took me back to that feeling, just pure froth and happiness where all you think about when you're going to sleep are the waves you caught that day and how amazing it felt. At it's essence, supping has given that back to me. I can't remember the last sup-session where I wasn't frothing at the end of it. It's given me wave count and length of waves like a longboard but with turns and challenge like a shortboard. Almost on par with that, is just an entirely new skill set to learn and how good it makes you feel when you start mastering each bit by bit.
My mate said it was one of his more memorable surfs yesterday and couldn't believe how well I 'surfed', like a shortboarder on my sup.
Interesting enough, it went pretty averagely as a quad compared to my 8'6 board that was way better as a quad.
I'm hoping to get out tomorrow in overhead conditions for the first time and really push it.
Just wanted to share the froth, I reckon i'll be allowed to shortboard again in less than 2 months