Rail re-spray

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Rail re-spray

Postby benjl » Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:17 am

IMG_4191.JPG


Hey guys

I've got a board here that has very scratched up rails but largely in good condition ie no dings or divets but just scratched to hell.
A shop said $200 to re-spray. Another said it would be easy to do myself and just save the money.

Any ideas for how I should do this? A shop said use 150, then 240gritt and then special automotive spray paint? I'd probably just stay with the same metallic silver and mask up over the place line that's there.
Any suggestions so I don't mess this up?
Just straight spray paint or do I need a clear coat or anything?
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jul 03, 2017 5:53 am

benji,
auto paint shops can match colors like this pretty easily. Some of them even used an optical system to get very close to the color formula required. You'd bring the board to them and they'd place it under the instrument. If it is an older shop, then there's an old guy that does this in his head without any modern equipment. Auto paints are very durable and easy to work with.

The smallest and easiest equipment to spray this small amount of damage with is an air brush. Air brushes do not require large air compressors. You can do amazing work with them. While I would paint automobile fenders and motorcycle parts with a conventional spray gun, my father painted most everything with an air brush.

If you are not familiar with the air brush, then here are some links. Know I have two air brushes. They are that useful.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airbrush
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=28450
http://www.tcpglobal.com/Airbrushing-Su ... rush-Kits/
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jul 03, 2017 5:58 am

I'd do that repair in a heartbeat.
The recommended sandpapers are okay prior to painting: (150 followed by 240). Auto paint is good because it is very durable and you can get nearly any color imaginable and yours will be easy to match.

I'd inquire from the auto paint store if they can make a two part auto epoxy paint. This is tough stuff and probably would not require clear coat. If you use a single coat, traditional color coat, then you'd apply two to three layers of color followed by clear coat. In between layers, you'd wet sand with 220 or 400. When the final layer of epoxy paint or clear coat on color coat is dry, you'd wet sand with 220, 400, and 600. On automobiles and motorcycle I go all the way through 800 to 1200.
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:04 am

You can get a lot of information from the auto paint supply store. They'll tell you how to do each step.

You should practice with the air brush. You can do this on cardboard and it is necessary. It is important to hold the brush equidistant from the surface for the entire length of the spray. You must be close enough to get a wet coat, but no so close that you produce runs. You must not be too far away from the work surface or you get dry coats that are not attractive. They are rough, too. If you get a run, it is not the end of the world. You can try to remove it with a sharp razor blade before the paint dries to absolute hardness. YOu can also wet sand the drip or run off with an actual block consisting of 1400 or 1600 or 1800 grit. You get these at the auto paint supply store and you keep in submerged in a sealed jar of water.

Next to final note: add a drop of Dawn dish washing soap or similar to the water used when wet sanding. The soap helps particles move away from the work and provides lubrication that reduces scratching.
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:08 am

Final notes:
1. do not use rattle can spray paint. This stuff is junk and you'll get a crummy finish that is not durable
2. Use blue painter's tape to mask off areas from over-spray
3. Take your time. Patience is a virtue when painting
4. I'd be happy to do this for you. Hop right on over and we'll do it next weekend
5. Forget about it all, use the board, beat it up a little bit, and never be upset that you damaged your board's surface
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby benjl » Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:28 am

Thanks Billie! I'll give you a bell or post pictures as I go :woot:
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:50 am

benji, know this, too. Wet sand paper should be used wet. You can actually soak the sand paper in water for 3 to 5 minutes before use. Dunk it good with frequency. in additon to adding dish soap to the water as aforementioned, I like to run a trickle of water across the work surface to remove sanding particles and provide lubrication.
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby benjl » Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:45 am

Hey billie, how deep do I sand? Back to the resin coat or just to the light grey/white?
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Re: Rail re-spray

Postby billie_morini » Sat Jul 15, 2017 12:55 am

I'm not following your question. See Private message!
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