Surfing Waves

Ok so I bought a another board. This is probably the shortest I will surf these days. it is 7' x 23" x 3" Possibly might be able to do a proper duck dive with it since it is much smaller than my other boards. I really just bought this board to give my shaper some business because his boards have made me so happy but also just to try something different.

It is an egg shape with a wide nose and a narrower tail. Hopefully I won't be too challenged to catch or ride waves with it. The concept is the flotation is in the nose and not so much in the tail allowing the tail to be pushed into the wave more than something like a mini mal. Funny but I am not so excited to use it but curious to see how it works for me. I am guessing it will be harder to paddle and catch waves than my other boards but possibly turns quicker?

Ive decided that is the same shape as I'm going to get. More or less - would be interested to hear how it goes. Seems to have a very flat rocker, but that might just be the perspective. I guess if you generally surf more mushy waves then its perfect for that.

Should be able to sink the tail for later drops....good looking board. Should have enough float; interested to hear how you get on with it.

dtc wrote:Ive decided that is the same shape as I'm going to get. More or less - would be interested to hear how it goes. Seems to have a very flat rocker, but that might just be the perspective. I guess if you generally surf more mushy waves then its perfect for that.

I haven't taken a straight edge to it yet but it seems like a gentle continuous rocker not quite flat with more in the nose and a little in the tail too. The rails are much more rounded than my other boards and only sharp in the last one fourth (about). I think there is a slight concave in the front to flatter in the back but I can tell more with a straight edge. I have so many other things to do in my life this week I haven't had the time. It's thinner than my other boards (but fatter in the nose) and the same width as my 8 foot board but narrower than my 7'6" board. And no I haven't waxed it or put the fins on yet

My 7'4 has rails just like that - soft until the last quarter and then very hard and blocky (square). It seems to work well - you can turn off the front foot and the back will release enough, or sit on the tail and do stuff. But keeps the board pretty stable and not as easy to dig in the rails on the softer waves. I still manage to do it, of course.

Big H wrote:Should be able to sink the tail for later drops....good looking board. Should have enough float; interested to hear how you get on with it.

No too worried about late drops. I could do late drops with my 9'6" longboard well enough. But you know I bet I can probably nose ride this board. Yeah I am interested to see how it works. Lately been surfing a lot of small mushy waves so it might be pretty good for those

Kinda looks like a hypto krypto.....

so since I got this board I took it out in mushy small waves fast steep small waves and steep waves with about 10 to 12 foot faces and it handled ok in all those situations. This past weekend I took it out in mushy waves with 10 to 18 foot faces and it seemed to be ok there too. I haven't figured out how to nose ride it more than I can my other boards....yet. I did manage some duck dive this past weekend. There were waves that were maybe 12 foot faces that had crumbled half way down and I did my usual duck dip but actually went completely under the whitewater like what a duck dive is supposed to do but likely only because I am going through the bottom of the wave instead of trying to go under whitewater. I think this board is going to be really good at turning but haven't had good sized waves with smooth faces to work on so far. I did an air popup yesterday on it. It was about a 10 to 12 foot face wave and I was paddling for it and felt the lift that meant I had caught it and was ready to popup but the wave just tossed me in the air so I just popped up and pushed the board back down onto the water and just when I was going to congratulate myself a big chop appeared and I pearled and the board stopped completely which meant I fell right at the top on the lip but fortunately somehow didn't go over the falls. These were the wonkiest bigger waves that I had ever been in. Bu the board seemed to handle well. I need to get some smoother faces on longer walls to see how it turns but it does seem to handle steep drops on both big and smaller waves just fine.