Surfing Waves

Are you better off going to as many new spots as you can?

Today my usual was a no go 10-12 foot and 35mph onshore winds and it was a mess so I went a different spot. I found catching a wave really difficult and wondered if I have got used to my usual waves and today I just couldn't find that sweet spot.

The waves were fairly big and they seemed to go from nothing to steep to over in the space of 5-10 meters, where as my usual you can see them and have a bit more time even when it's big.

Am I better off trying as many breaks as possible?

For safety sake sticking to one spot and becoming entirely familiar with that one spot is the way to go. For waves of the variety that you want when you want them, the more the merrier. For most surfers that means you want to know every surfable spot within reach.

The beach next door can be totally different to your normal break - and can be hard to 'get wired'. As Old Man says, its worth surfing a few different breaks just so you can feel comfortable when you go to the place that best suits on the day (tide or particularly swell direction and swell size will usually make one place better than another). But the first few times you surf there will be hard.

Its all part of learning; even being somewhere new of itself can be a bit strange and make you nervous. Learning the rips and the sand bars and how the waves break...

I have my main spot that I like from around 1 to 6 feet. It also works when every place else is blown out. I also have a spot that's kind of far away, but doesn't get crowded. Unfortunately, I have to get there early in the morning to get it good. Lately I haven't been able to drag myself out of bed on the weekends so I haven't surfed it in a while. My second spot can get kind of big and scary at times so I try and surf it when its small every where else. I also have spot number 3 that gets really good when it's huge everywhere else. Spot 3 is a bacteriological cesspool pretty often so I tend to avoid it. I'm pretty familiar with all three spots, but I stick to my main spot most of the time because I really like the waves and the people there. I know how the sections form up at my main spot and where to sit to get waves. I know how the tide affects it and how the wind works with it. I know how the waves shift around under different conditions. I feel very comfortable there so that's where I go when I want a relaxing session. My second spot is more of a challenge spot. Spot 3 is a nowhere-else-to-go spot that gets really good when every where else is insane.

You know the answer.....the more waves you learn to surf the better you will be. It will take time to learn each of the new breaks but that is the joy of the journey right?

Consider it the same as building a quiver.... the more breaks you learn the more known choices you have based on conditions....you will better know where to go to suit you the best on a given day.

I surf only in one bay but within that bay there are at least 15 breaks so lots to pick from. I surf only there due to time constraints.

If you want to travel then becoming capable of adapting to new breaks, a much needed skill.
Assessing by watching to understand the traffic and the conditions first and gently introducing yourself to the nuances of the break. Wave reading is most important and knowing and trusting your innate skills, the last thing anyone wants is to be totally smashed in a strange area, especially at a third world break.
If in doubt don't go out!
Even then there are surprises
Jaffa being surprised

thats just Jaffa getting barreled. He pulled out and stood up - but didnt make a claim because Jaffa is old school

But he does wash his hair!

This spot washes and tumble dries, but a favourite spot for me!

jaffa1949 wrote:Even then there are surprises

IMG_1876.JPG

Jaffa being surprised

More like punching through the curtain

If you go to a new spot, DON'T go alone. Especially if there's no lifeguards. Try go with surf buddy that surfed that break before.

I think that's half the problem is that none of my friends surf, my neighbour said to come out with him but he does go to places I wouldn't cope (my nearest beach which is quite tricky).

I go out with a local surf school but I am now ahead of everyone else because I went out all through the winter when Alot of them stopped and Alot only go out with the club.

I wouldn't of gone out yesterday if there wasn't quite a few people out and life guards on but I will try and get to a few more beaches over the summer when the life guards are on duty.

I've stuck to my local 2/3 beaches because I know where not to go and if it was too big at 2 of them the 3rd would be that bit smaller and if the 3rd was too big I would play in the white water but now I don't want to be in the white water so either don't go out or have to start trying the south coast and more sheltered spots.

If you are by yourself then spend a good 15 - 20 minutes watching the waves, the currents, spotting 'get out' spots in case your leash breaks, where it looks a bit shallow, where to paddle out (and where not to paddle out) and that kind of thing. Watch to make sure you have seen a few sets coming through so you can get a feeling how they work.

Ideally dont go out by yourself - try and hang around another surfer or 2; if no one is in the water then see if there are people on the beach that might - in a pinch - offer some form of help (that may not be an issue where you surf! But sometimes there are places I look to surf and there is no one in the water or on the beach).

But do go out, having done the important safety checks - if you never go to a new break then every break will always be new. The first session or three might be a bit of a failure, but eventually you will have 4 or 6 regular breaks that you feel comfortable in.

I'm fairly lucky and unlucky that all the beaches I know and go to are also well known so I have never been out and not seen someone else in with me.

I did sit there for about 10 minutes and watched a few sets come in watched where I thought I wanted to be where I was going to drift because of currents and wind. There was about 20 others in there as Well so I watched a few waves being caught and sized them up as well.

RinkyDink wrote:I have my main spot that I like from around 1 to 6 feet. It also works when every place else is blown out. I also have a spot that's kind of far away, but doesn't get crowded. Unfortunately, I have to get there early in the morning to get it good. Lately I haven't been able to drag myself out of bed on the weekends so I haven't surfed it in a while. My second spot can get kind of big and scary at times so I try and surf it when its small every where else. I also have spot number 3 that gets really good when it's huge everywhere else. Spot 3 is a bacteriological cesspool pretty often so I tend to avoid it. I'm pretty familiar with all three spots, but I stick to my main spot most of the time because I really like the waves and the people there. I know how the sections form up at my main spot and where to sit to get waves. I know how the tide affects it and how the wind works with it. I know how the waves shift around under different conditions. I feel very comfortable there so that's where I go when I want a relaxing session. My second spot is more of a challenge spot. Spot 3 is a nowhere-else-to-go spot that gets really good when every where else is insane.

Just out of curiosity, where are these spots? I'm in Norcal as well but located up in SF so always good to hear some go-tos.

Thanks!