Surfing Waves

Has anyone made one? My idea is to buy a plank of wood and some table legs and then screw the legs onto the plank that will be screwed to the wall. I'm wondering how long the legs would need to be. Some people use pvc pipes or wooden dowel but I don't own many tools so the table legs seemed like a good choice. They come in 40cm or 70cm. I think the widest board here is about 55cm.

This is what I mean about table legs. http://www.leroymerlin.pt/Site/Produtos ... 21620.aspx

And this the kind of design I'm looking at http://www.tidalpush.com/2014/10/10/surf-racks/

Would it be better to get 70cm legs?

Why not just screw a table to a wall?

Should have known you'd have written something dumb like usual.

https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=27335

My post about making one... Just can't seem to transfer the images across (:

wow.. I really like what you made. I doubt mine will be so attractive but have to organise some space. I've got a pretty simple design in mind but I wonder if having the pole at 70cm is too long. Some other D.I.Y have said to cut the poles at 18 inches which is about 45cm. Seems too short? Thanks heaps for showing me your post.

As waikikichan said in the linked thread, you will want the support arms to be at least 3/4 the width of your board. Any shorter and it might be a bit unstable. So that depends on your boards of course, but if they are 20 inches at the point of support (which might not be the widest point), the supports need to be about 15 inches/40 cm long at a minimum. Longer is not an issue and is better - I think if you went for the 40cm legs they might be a bit short but might be ok.

I assume you will be putting some padding on the supports. And on the ground (a piece of old carpet is a cheap option, or a cheap camping sleep mat)

I would be wary of metal table legs - the weight might be too much if you put them horizontal (ie the legs might sag a bit where they are connected to the wall/sheet of wood). The legs are designed to be vertical, which is a lot less of a weight bearing load. It might be ok, but wooden legs would be better. Or upgrade the connections from screws to bolts.

Why not use pvc like the plan? You can get the exact diameter that will fit inside whatever pipe insulation available to use for the support padding, can cut the arms to the length needed for your boards, is light so that the mount on the wall will not have to be as heavily reinforced as would be needed for heavier legs, and PVC pipe is cheap. The material won't matter since it will be covered with pipe insulation. I made a rack and made sure the arms were longer than the width of the boards and that worked out well.

debz0773 wrote:Should have known you'd have written something dumb like usual.

Being that it's the week of EARTH DAY, I don't think his comment was "dumb" but actually wise and Earth Friendly. Why not buy less and "repurpose" a broken un-used table into a rack. One of the best racks I seen was made from two shipping pallets. Reduce, Re-Use, Re-purpose.

dtc wrote:As waikikichan said in the linked thread, you will want the support arms to be at least 3/4 the width of your board. Any shorter and it might be a bit unstable. So that depends on your boards of course, but if they are 20 inches at the point of support (which might not be the widest point), the supports need to be about 15 inches/40 cm long at a minimum. Longer is not an issue and is better - I think if you went for the 40cm legs they might be a bit short but might be ok.

I assume you will be putting some padding on the supports. And on the ground (a piece of old carpet is a cheap option, or a cheap camping sleep mat)

I would be wary of metal table legs - the weight might be too much if you put them horizontal (ie the legs might sag a bit where they are connected to the wall/sheet of wood). The legs are designed to be vertical, which is a lot less of a weight bearing load. It might be ok, but wooden legs would be better. Or upgrade the connections from screws to bolts.

Thanks.. The legs are really light weight and I can put some insulation foam or something like that around them. I have old carpet pieces for the floor so all good there.

Big H wrote:Why not use pvc like the plan? You can get the exact diameter that will fit inside whatever pipe insulation available to use for the support padding, can cut the arms to the length needed for your boards, is light so that the mount on the wall will not have to be as heavily reinforced as would be needed for heavier legs, and PVC pipe is cheap. The material won't matter since it will be covered with pipe insulation. I made a rack and made sure the arms were longer than the width of the boards and that worked out well.

Thanks.. I know you weren't serious about the bloody table ..Yeah I would really like to go for pvc. It would be lighter thank the legs but the legs are actually pretty light. I have some here too but I have bugger all tools. I am still considering it though whether to buy some tools. My main concern was the length so thanks for the help.

waikikikichan wrote:

debz0773 wrote:Should have known you'd have written something dumb like usual.

Being that it's the week of EARTH DAY, I don't think his comment was "dumb" but actually wise and Earth Friendly. Why not buy less and "repurpose" a broken un-used table into a rack. One of the best racks I seen was made from two shipping pallets. Reduce, Re-Use, Re-purpose.

If I had a table that I wanted to reuse maybe I could bolt it to the wall yeah!!.. The catch 22 is I have lots of materials to re use but no tools so I have to buy tools.. either way I have to buy something. But making the rack will be cheaper than buying a rack.

Electric Drill (cheap one with the power cable not cordless), masonry and wood bits, hand saw, screwdriver and you're good.

Big H wrote:Electric Drill (cheap one with the power cable not cordless), masonry and wood bits, hand saw, screwdriver and you're good.

Yep..that seems ok. I think after reading what everyone is saying PVC will be better and I do have some around here so I can re use it. When you made yours Big H, did you make it with the PVC caps? These guys do this but have the screw sticking out the other side.
http://www.boardcovers.com.au/blog/make ... oard-rack/

So that makes me wonder how that works with screwing onto a wall without having a tool to cut the excess screw?

debz0773 wrote: These guys do this but have the screw sticking out the other side.
http://www.boardcovers.com.au/blog/make ... oard-rack/

So that makes me wonder how that works with screwing onto a wall without having a tool to cut the excess screw?

I think its because they attached it to a support beam in the shed that wasnt solid and had a gap where the bolt could sit (looking at the first photo)

You can cut it off with a hacksaw; or you can attach another board to the back of the main board (thick enough to extend past the bolt). Thus the main board (that faces the room) sits out a bit from the wall.

But the easiest way would be to attach the bolt the other way around, so that the bolt sticks out forwards (but is then covered up by the PVC pipe). On the rear you can countersink the screw (drill a small hole in the board that is slightly wider than the head of the screw, so that when you attach the screw, the head is flush with the board).

debz0773 wrote:Should have known you'd have written something dumb like usual.

Roxy Ridgeback and billie don't like this comment.

debz0773 wrote:

Big H wrote:Electric Drill (cheap one with the power cable not cordless), masonry and wood bits, hand saw, screwdriver and you're good.

Yep..that seems ok. I think after reading what everyone is saying PVC will be better and I do have some around here so I can re use it. When you made yours Big H, did you make it with the PVC caps? These guys do this but have the screw sticking out the other side.
http://www.boardcovers.com.au/blog/make ... oard-rack/

So that makes me wonder how that works with screwing onto a wall without having a tool to cut the excess screw?

I used bamboo; they cleared a grove at the end of the street and it was piled up on the side of the road.

billie_morini wrote:

debz0773 wrote:Should have known you'd have written something dumb like usual.

Roxy Ridgeback and billie don't like this comment.

I'm joking .. lighten up

dtc wrote:

debz0773 wrote: These guys do this but have the screw sticking out the other side.
http://www.boardcovers.com.au/blog/make ... oard-rack/

So that makes me wonder how that works with screwing onto a wall without having a tool to cut the excess screw?

I think its because they attached it to a support beam in the shed that wasnt solid and had a gap where the bolt could sit (looking at the first photo)

You can cut it off with a hacksaw; or you can attach another board to the back of the main board (thick enough to extend past the bolt). Thus the main board (that faces the room) sits out a bit from the wall.

But the easiest way would be to attach the bolt the other way around, so that the bolt sticks out forwards (but is then covered up by the PVC pipe). On the rear you can countersink the screw (drill a small hole in the board that is slightly wider than the head of the screw, so that when you attach the screw, the head is flush with the board).

Ok..thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Well, have you rocked your rack yet. Pictures please!