Surfing Waves

Decided to take to board out today that's been in the garage. Got my dads old diving two piece suit that's probably older than me. I'm 30. 5ft 10. 160 pounds. This was basically my first time since the only other time I tried surfing when I was 13. Fairly comfortable paddling and going at smaller waves. I felt extremely heavy the second I got wet though. Anytime I tried popping up my arms almost gave out and felt like all my strength was gone. Is this just beginner issues? I'm just an out of shape wuss? or would a lighter, more flexible suit make a bit of difference? I'm definitely not a scrawny guy. I know I shouldn't be starting on a 7 foot board but I like the challenge and won't give up. Deifinitely open to trying other boards too. And that suit is a little over 7 pounds bone dry. Still had fun and stuck it out there for 2 hours. Any feedback is appreciated. Oh yeah..I'm in the central west coast California. Cheers!

Fear not, Schatz! Surf enough and your problems will be solved. The unpleasant answers to questions 1 and 2 are temporary. The answer to the 3rd question is neutral.

Q1. Is this just beginner issues?
A1. Yes. The more you surf, the sooner you'll build muscle and stamina.

Q2. I'm just an out of shape wuss?
A2. Yes, but we're talking about being out of surfer shape. Surfer shape requires different muscles, flexiblity, and stamina than other sports. All fitness is not created equal.

Q3. Would a lighter, more flexible suit make a bit of difference?
A3. Possibly, but you've got to get yourself in order before you can appreciate a lighter, more flexible suit . Don't forget, lower end modern neoprene is more stretchy than the top shelf neoprene from 10 years ago. Also, don't forget some surfers learn in cold water requiring 4, 5, or even 6 mm suits.

What billie said

Perhaps I'll ask this question: when was the last time you swam 1000 yards? If the answer is 'more than 3 months ago', then its 99% fitness causing your problems. If the answer is 'within the last three months', then its possibly only 75% fitness related. You can blame your equipment for the rest.

2 hours is a perfectly acceptable session for most surfers, let alone beginners. Of course, your fitness gets really tested when you try to do 2 hrs today, and tomorrow and every day for the next 7 days

Schatzferatu wrote: I know I shouldn't be starting on a 7 foot board but I like the challenge and won't give up.

You "know" but still do it anyways because you like the challenge ? See how this sounds to you, "the tires are flat, the handlebar bent and the seat is about to break off the post, but I'm going mountain biking cuz I like the challenge."
Surfing is soo hard when you first start off ( and it doesn't get easier as you do more difficult maneuvers and surf bigger harder breaks ). Do the right thing.

waikikikichan wrote:

Schatzferatu wrote: I know I shouldn't be starting on a 7 foot board but I like the challenge and won't give up.

You "know" but still do it anyways because you like the challenge ? See how this sounds to you, "the tires are flat, the handlebar bent and the seat is about to break off the post, but I'm going mountain biking cuz I like the challenge."
Surfing is soo hard when you first start off ( and it doesn't get easier as you do more difficult maneuvers and surf bigger harder breaks ). Do the right thing.

Hahahaha......likes the challenge of not even being able to pop up with spaghetti arms.

Where is the fun in that? That will get old faster than your fitness will compensate. 7ft board at your size with all that gear needs a decently critical wave to get going on...not one that you can flounder much when getting up. It is not like getting a bigger board makes it easy....still hard as heck and you'll be exhausted....but you'll get waves----eventually. Plenty to learn when starting out....where to catch the wave, how to find the spot again, how to get out back, how to hold position....how to get out back when it is bigger than you've done before, turtle rolls, duck dives, just learning to sit on the board in choppy waves.....why throw yourself additional "challenges"....enough on your plate already.

You tried surfing when you were 13 now you are trying again....... there is no try only fail or succeed. All you choices of equipment are leading to fail!
Good advice is being offered, please take it and enjoy a surfing journey ( hey man I tried surfing , too hard) .

Thanks for the advice ya'll. I'm definitely going to work on my fitness and start scoping out local shops for bigger boards. Just figured I'd give the 7 footer a shot since it is available to me. Guess I was a bit cocky, too. I also have to keep in my mind that I just quit smoking 2 weeks ago. 15 years of that poison. Could take a lot of time for lung repair or maybe even never. However, looking forward to shaping up my body and progressing!

jaffa1949 wrote:You tried surfing when you were 13 now you are trying again....... there is no try only fail or succeed. All you choices of equipment are leading to fail!
Good advice is being offered, please take it and enjoy a surfing journey ( hey man I tried surfing , too hard) .

What I meant by that was I borrowed a board from a motel at the beach I had stayed at for the day when I was younger. So I remember riding a couple small waves on a big board one day and that was that. Other than that I didn't have easy beach access growing up. Guess I can say I'm 30 now and just getting into it. I'm closer to the beach now as well

Wow nothing to regain there except a healthy life. Great choice ! Seriously keep hanging in I for one will be happy to talk you back to life!

Congratulations on quitting smoking....I went through a period of that and to quit is no easy feat.

See if there are some shops that will rent; try some different sizes and see how that goes. Esp. with the smoke tarnished lungs, you've got a hill to climb. My breathing started to clear up immediately after quitting but took a year before being winded stopped being as painful as it was right after quitting. Big board will make it all a little easier. Good luck!

quitting smoking is so easy. I quit over a hundred times so I should know Just kidding the quitting is the easy part staying quit is the hard part. Surfing is good, surf more, let surfing change your life for the better

Btw, an 8ft Costco wavestorm board is a good choice for you if you don't want to spend a lot of money or time going through second hand ads. Sure you will eventually want to 'move on' to a hard board, but for now it's a simple option as you get back into it.

Although if you do want to look second hand, suggest something around 9ft x 22 wide x 2 3/4 thick. Can go a bit shorter (maybe to 8ft) and up to 1/2 inch narrower, don't go thinner (thicker is fine)

dtc wrote:Btw, an 8ft Costco wavestorm board is a good choice for you if you don't want to spend a lot of money or time going through second hand ads. Sure you will eventually want to 'move on' to a hard board, but for now it's a simple option as you get back into it.

Although if you do want to look second hand, suggest something around 9ft x 22 wide x 2 3/4 thick. Can go a bit shorter (maybe to 8ft) and up to 1/2 inch narrower, don't go thinner (thicker is fine)

Excellent! Thanks for the tip!