Surfing Waves

Skip to 1;00 for Marshall Brothers at Malibu, from "A Deeper Shade of Blue"

Surfing is reading waves, paddling, balance and mastering endless skills, but for me it's mostly about fun. Is there any goofy stuff you do just to put a smile on your face?

While paddling out, I popup ahead of incoming waves and ride over them.
On tiny waves, its fun sit on the deck and try to make it into shore.
After stepping forward, I turn around, walk back.....and mostly fall.

When the waves aren't particularly good I will try to see how far I can ride a wave. This involves a lot of positioning on the board to keep the board moving and in front of the power of the wave. If my wife is there she will always say "You had some good waves" but what she means is I rode them for a good distance. When there is a hollow closeout section on the inside I will often try to get tubed there and then stand up through the lip. Mostly I wipe out doing that but maybe one out of a hundred times I will stay on my board and continue riding. When there are small tubing waves I always like to catch the lip with my hand as it throws over before it hits my knees. It just makes me feel good......sort of like acknowledging that there is a tube there too small for me to get tubed in.

Closeout barrels, shooting up and over the back at speed....duck dipping while paddling parallel to the wave, (trying to) hang 5 on a shortboard.....reminds me....been wanting to try a backwards take off then 180 on a longboard on a small day.

oldmansurfer wrote:When the waves aren't particularly good I will try to see how far I can ride a wave.

Most of my waves are 2-3 feet and I go for the long ride every time. Knee high!

Big H wrote:Closeout barrels, shooting up and over the back at speed....duck dipping while paddling parallel to the wave, (trying to) hang 5 on a shortboard.....reminds me....been wanting to try a backwards take off then 180 on a longboard on a small day.

There’s a regular at Bo who rides a finless, PINK, 7 footer and dazzles us with side slips, 180’s and backward rides. He's a work in progress who loves to exaggerate his wipeouts.

Foamies are always fun! They are THE fastest way around closeout sections.
(when I land on my feet)

Last sesh, I had fun playing with an "Endless Summer move."