I've been surfing since 1958 so a lot of back in the day

one year off 60 surfing
The loss to surfing is where genuine surf companies are bought out by dollar seeking non related companies.
ie an investment bank owns the FCS brand.
Crowds but it would a pretty poor personal attitude to wish people away from what I enjoy so much as my lifestyle.
Love the progress in boards enables an old surfer to maintain a resemblance of higher performance.
Boards are slowing in progress though as companies play fashion follow the leader and generate all too similar models.
I applaud smorgasboarding as the acceptance of all the forms of surfing is become more widely spread.
I am appalled by the loss of respect in the water and the sense of entitlement that causes so much friction in the surf. Not know the level of your own skills but thinking you hold a place in the line up.
Good stuff , although when I first started surfing 100 miles up or down the coast was new territory and you would often be one of the first to surf a beach and you might be the only one.
Now every coastline has surf travel potential. Some of it too epic for mere mortals but echoing what you drew in your school books. Nazare , Teahupou,Shipsterns,

would have always been beyond me, but amazing to see.
Selfish hypocritical dislike, surf prediction sites and cameras, when they bring extra people to my home break. Like them when they show me places to go for my surf
