Surfing Waves

Been doing it for a while has changed my views tremendously. but this is my changed perspective over time. all of you know how i went into this underestimating the whole sport to an extent where it has served me right. i had fights with waves over 4 meters in morocco trying to be all that. rolling back to back in water and stepping on urchins not knowing the whole ins and outs of the surf world. but im doing this a lot and it has change my perspective. so let me explain my topic title

You have to approach this from an open minded state. also you have to know these are no facts. talent and tastes and ways to achieve things are solely on an individuals mind state that i can not control nor propogate the way i do it. all i can do is share and perhaps it links or doesnt link with you. so here goes

1. Skateboarding is very easy to learn. skateboarding is on concrete and does not force you to do something you dont want to do. like changing waves or forced to dive or anything in the dimension of that. skateboarding can be a tool to just ride. in that way it can perhaps be anb easy sport depending on what you are gonnna do with it. regardless.................
when you start to do tricks from basic to 360 flip the devotion becomes a hard training method that can only last all day. you have to keep training for this. it is so time consuming that it can influence the rest of your important part of life. also skateboarding is more painfull. with skateboarding pain is in the deal. you ARE going to fall. sometimes you know you reached your skate level. some because of fear for rails or just dont like rails. some because they just dont have the talent for miniramps but can do 13 stairs kickflip. the mind has a blockwall. some that can be overrun and some not somehow. sometimes you know why. but next day you skate and get that same blockwall in your mind like a broken LP record. however. if you get old and were a pro and didnt skate for a while. but start again. ok u wont go high stairs. but one day and you know most of the tricks again. skateboarding imprints in the memories. but is still harder then surfing if you want to go up. its a painfull thing. this is why some surfer just choose not to skateboard. theres more onto this but this was a summary.

2. surfing is very hard to master depending on how you route your way in this sport. but still it doesnt matter how you take the route its still harder to master then skateboarding. most snow skate ski inline peeps really just quit because they cant plug n play like they did. they dont have the talent to stand up like they did as babies crawling to stand to walk. This is a very very hard process you will not find in skateboarding. many skateboarders hate this and get demotivated really fast abandoning the surf and say its to hard or its a stupid sport. but when you are determined or you are enjoying this.(even paddling) then eventually it will come to you. this is where the other hard part comes. you learned to crawl. that was hard. you learned to stand pop up. it was hard. you learned TRIM that was hard. you are learning to steer and pump and tic tac. its very very very hard. and you dont get to choose which way to steer only the wave tells which way. and in that you can have a limited way of doing your things to stay standing. now this is a maaaaaaaaaajor blockwall to skaters cause they want to do those tricks. but surfing is starting at the baby crawling method. this is a devastating route depending what you wanna do. malibu board or shortboard or long board. how far do you wanna go is also gonna decide your determination. so saying all this. surfing becomes easy. i mean very easy especially when you do it every day. it becomes better then skateboarding and the enjoyance in surfing is nature water fresh air. even with all the dangers like rocks urchins sharks etcetera. you can find waves in a spot that doesnt have any of those dangers. sharks can be there always. thats a fact. the injury in surfing to me is also major. but in skating you WILL have pain. and in surfing that doesnt have to be. surfing however relies on heavy cardio and perhaps also musclepower. losing them means you cant surf no more(unless so skilled). now to get to the part. i said you can go skateboards again and get dem tricks back in a mum of time. but if you didnt surf years. thats a wwhole different thing. you have to start all over. maybe you can still paddle. but your pop up needs reskill and steering and all.
so surfing to me is the better sport then skating. but also the most unforgiving sport i done. we are speaking of skilled surfing. not funboarding once a year. surfing hard to master easy to lose.

whats yalls view in this? there is some philosophy in this

DreamSurf wrote:you learned to stand pop up. it was hard. you learned TRIM that was hard. you are learning to steer and pump and tic tac. its very very very hard. and you dont get to choose which way to steer only the wave tells which way. and in that you can have a limited way of doing your things to stay standing. now this is a maaaaaaaaaajor blockwall to skaters cause they want to do those tricks. but surfing is starting at the baby crawling method. this is a devastating route depending what you wanna do. malibu board or shortboard or long board. how far do you wanna go is also gonna decide your determination. so saying all this. surfing becomes easy. i mean very easy especially when you do it every day.

You remember we all saw your videos right?
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26646

So in the three months since the first time you ever tried to surf, you have learned all of the above techniques and have now reached a point of accomplishment where you are resting on your laurels, reflecting on your 14 week journey and have come to the realisation and have seen fit to post an entire thread about now that you're looking back on your entire learning and development process, now that you're looking back you have decided that surfing has become........ "easy"?


....and why front like you're riding 4m waves all the time in Morocco.....you live in Belgium right? Why so important to play the role of the sage? Why not just present yourself as the eager learner that you are? I'm missing something.....I just don't get it.

skateboarding imprints in the memories. but is still harder then surfing if you want to go up

I don't know because I'm not an advanced skater or surfer. I suspect surfing is harder because everything depends on the waves. If your only choice is to surf Lake Michigan 3 times a week, that is if there's any swell, then your chances of making the world surf tour are pretty remote. Your essay assumes too much: good surf on a regular basis, an unlimited amount of income to spend on surfboards, unlimited time, etc. In my opinion, surfing is like other sports of privilege (horse racing, Formula One, polo riding, etc.). You have to pay to play. Skateboarding is cheaper in my opinion. If you're really determined to skateboard, you could probably get the parts to make a decent skateboard with some time and patience.

My perspective on surfing is different from yours though. I just want to develop enough skill to do some things in the ocean that are incredibly fun: tube riding, top-to-bottom surfing, challenging myself in bigger surf, etc. The highest mountain, the biggest wave, the highest aerial, the best surfer, the most glorious wipeout, the perfect wave (okay, I do fixate on that a bit) are the kinds of fantasies that advertisers push to take your money. I just want to maximize my pleasure surfing. I can leave the rest of it. Actually, I wish the marketing part of it would disappear completely.

I agree that surfing is less painful to learn. I don't even recall my first trim. it wasn't that big of a deal or even my first tube ride because I had been body boarding prior and got much better rides. It took me at least a year to duplicate those feelings I got body boarding. The first day I surfed on a surfboard after I first decided to learn to surf (it was a 6'10" board) I rode at least a couple unbroken waves. The whole experience is different for every one. However once you get to doing airs then it apparently becomes painful as most of the guys who do that have suffered a lot of injuries from it. In fact most really good surfers have suffered some major injuries surfing. In skateboarding you can't get swept out to sea or pounded into the reef or held under water till you drown.

DreamSurf wrote:if you didnt surf years. thats a whole different thing. you have to start all over. maybe you can still paddle. but your pop up needs reskill and steering and all. so surfing to me is the better sport then skating. but also the most unforgiving sport i done.

When a college student in Santa Barbara, surfing was intuitive. I paddled to spot X, popped-up, and carved because it "felt right." My body was up for the physical demands and was rarely sore no matter how long I was out.

At 65, surfing is all about conditioning, I condition my arms with endless laps in the pool, condition my muscle memory with practice pop-ups, and condition my balance by carving turns and cross stepping with my long skateboard. If I skip swimming, I struggle to get out and ride the shoulder instead of spot x. If I don't practice pop-ups, I wobble to my feet and lose the power of the wave. And if I don't work the skateboard, I trim turns that should be carved. As you'd expect the penalties are amplified with bigger winter waves.

That said, I have more fun surfing now than I did in my youth. The prep adds a little stoke to every day that I'm away from the coast, and when it all comes together in a sesh, I feel like Danny Ocean pulling off the perfect casino heist.
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"A comfort zone is a beautiful place, but nothing ever grows there." - Unknown

I think he means surfing white water when it's 4m out back, it may be true it's been 3-4m recently in morocco though I know my limits and didn't go surfing, waiting for the swell to calm to my healthy 1.3-2.5m (4-8ft).
There's no way he's surfing waves that big considering it's practically unsurfable in most of morocco when it's that big(excluding some reefs in the north) and also that he started surfing a few months ago
I also have to admit BoMan, when it's big I don't even carve, it looks like I'm running away from the thing

icetime wrote:I also have to admit BoMan, when it's big I don't even carve, it looks like I'm running away from the thing

When I first started to go out in double overhead surf I just did roller coasters going up and down racing to keep ahead of the wave. My friends who had all been surfing for years (I had only been surfing about 1 year) used to make fun of me because I was just running away from the wave but shortly after that I learned to slow down. Seems like that is a safer method of learning, learn to go fast then learn to go slow

oldmansurfer wrote:

icetime wrote:I also have to admit BoMan, when it's big I don't even carve, it looks like I'm running away from the thing

When I first started to go out in double overhead surf I just did roller coasters going up and down racing to keep ahead of the wave. My friends who had all been surfing for years (I had only been surfing about 1 year) used to make fun of me because I was just running away from the wave but shortly after that I learned to slow down. Seems like that is a safer method of learning, learn to go fast then learn to go slow

Yup ! I'm not going to sit under a lip that will smack me to the bottom and hold me down for 15 seconds on a big day after all 15 seconds can feel like a life time under water

Dream, I have read a lot of your posts but never replied. I don't get you, what are you trying to achieve? I am not even convinced you surf regularly. Surfing is easy? 4m waves? Pleeeaaase, you would xxxxx your pants with waves half that size. Look up some clips of Puerto Escondido and tell me you'd paddle out.

I'm not trying to be a dick, but I've just grown tired of your rambling monologues. Just get out there amongst it and stop pontificating...

Big H wrote:

DreamSurf wrote:you learned to stand pop up. it was hard. you learned TRIM that was hard. you are learning to steer and pump and tic tac. its very very very hard. and you dont get to choose which way to steer only the wave tells which way. and in that you can have a limited way of doing your things to stay standing. now this is a maaaaaaaaaajor blockwall to skaters cause they want to do those tricks. but surfing is starting at the baby crawling method. this is a devastating route depending what you wanna do. malibu board or shortboard or long board. how far do you wanna go is also gonna decide your determination. so saying all this. surfing becomes easy. i mean very easy especially when you do it every day.

You remember we all saw your videos right?
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=26646

So in the three months since the first time you ever tried to surf, you have learned all of the above techniques and have now reached a point of accomplishment where you are resting on your laurels, reflecting on your 14 week journey and have come to the realisation and have seen fit to post an entire thread about now that you're looking back on your entire learning and development process, now that you're looking back you have decided that surfing has become........ "easy"?


....and why front like you're riding 4m waves all the time in Morocco.....you live in Belgium right? Why so important to play the role of the sage? Why not just present yourself as the eager learner that you are? I'm missing something.....I just don't get it.

BigHyvemind look. i never told that i surfed them. i said i was going to them back to back. any local moroccan can tell you that 3 or 4 m waves are really clean. ofcourse you jumped into the conclusion of a Lombok type of wave. yeah i remember you saw my 1st day videos. and im proud that i did. a hard first day for days to come. everybody swims 2 3 4 m. they are clean and proper waves. the worst of them are casablancas sidi slimane because of the rocks. but on a clean beach you can try them. yes its to no avail. but still happy that i try. i try man.

yeah in 3 months surfing regularly moved to beach side in a proper appartment resulting in being far from my previous place. look i dont have to tell you my whereabouts so you can suck on it. realisations change per experience and time like all things in life. but ofcourse again you didnt think that way. the simple you loves to stay at the checkpoint of me being a first day surfer. now ofcourse you do not accept that i am determined and devouted and perhaps not a slow learner. you do not accept this i know. but its ok. i know. I I I know.

I am no sage. you are from the start that is the one who uses those words. those are YOUR words. i would like to describe myself as a a beginner surfer who likes to spectate the boundaries and sometimes look for them. and when punished going back to my standards where i can push further. your words man your words.

icetime wrote:I think he means surfing white water when it's 4m out back, it may be true it's been 3-4m recently in morocco though I know my limits and didn't go surfing, waiting for the swell to calm to my healthy 1.3-2.5m (4-8ft).
There's no way he's surfing waves that big considering it's practically unsurfable in most of morocco when it's that big(excluding some reefs in the north) and also that he started surfing a few months ago
I also have to admit BoMan, when it's big I don't even carve, it looks like I'm running away from the thing

thank you for backing this. i forgot that you were from morocco.

RinkyDink wrote:

skateboarding imprints in the memories. but is still harder then surfing if you want to go up

I don't know because I'm not an advanced skater or surfer. I suspect surfing is harder because everything depends on the waves. If your only choice is to surf Lake Michigan 3 times a week, that is if there's any swell, then your chances of making the world surf tour are pretty remote. Your essay assumes too much: good surf on a regular basis, an unlimited amount of income to spend on surfboards, unlimited time, etc. In my opinion, surfing is like other sports of privilege (horse racing, Formula One, polo riding, etc.). You have to pay to play. Skateboarding is cheaper in my opinion. If you're really determined to skateboard, you could probably get the parts to make a decent skateboard with some time and patience.

My perspective on surfing is different from yours though. I just want to develop enough skill to do some things in the ocean that are incredibly fun: tube riding, top-to-bottom surfing, challenging myself in bigger surf, etc. The highest mountain, the biggest wave, the highest aerial, the best surfer, the most glorious wipeout, the perfect wave (okay, I do fixate on that a bit) are the kinds of fantasies that advertisers push to take your money. I just want to maximize my pleasure surfing. I can leave the rest of it. Actually, I wish the marketing part of it would disappear completely.

nice read. ofcourse every individual to his own feeling and perspective. who know after a full year i may think differently. mike tyson is today stand up comedian and a good thinker. not the fighter he was back in the day. but even tho i cant feel what you feel. i am trying to understand. horse racing is no joke either. i used to ride with my cousins every day from boufferah to medjlaw in morocco. with only a straw made settle. arabian horses hurt buts LOL. and when you ride hard on a sand road and some sands are hard or to soft resulting in different curve ride feelings. but quiet honestly our horses were very simple. all you had to do is ra for rijding sha for instand stop and shsssssssssh for slow stop. and for steering you d use the rope left or right.

i do not have any experience with formula. but i suck at drifting so im a basic car rider on the street..

ontopic with these differences. surfing is not a day one on concrete. my personal feeling is that comparison of a baby learning to crawl and stand and walk. you have to really respect the basics. and you cant take them for granted like skateboarding. and you know i was underestimating this day one. and i was like yeah lets just do it to approve or dissaprove and boy was i wrong. everything becomes easy once you really know the basics. but the basics are harder then the whole deal. which why even my friends i recruted stopped surfing. they wanted that instant enjoyment they had with skateboarding. well it just aint that way. tuberide huh? well im dreaming of it. LOL maybe one day/ im trying man

oldmansurfer wrote:I agree that surfing is less painful to learn. I don't even recall my first trim. it wasn't that big of a deal or even my first tube ride because I had been body boarding prior and got much better rides. It took me at least a year to duplicate those feelings I got body boarding. The first day I surfed on a surfboard after I first decided to learn to surf (it was a 6'10" board) I rode at least a couple unbroken waves. The whole experience is different for every one. However once you get to doing airs then it apparently becomes painful as most of the guys who do that have suffered a lot of injuries from it. In fact most really good surfers have suffered some major injuries surfing. In skateboarding you can't get swept out to sea or pounded into the reef or held under water till you drown.

well i kind of put the air thing on pause. but i will get to that. yes those are the comparisons of being swept into the reef. ofcourse it is still an extreme sport not to go soft on. some things are just way out of our might. i broke my nose on a simple for stairs and was rocking on a 10. all because there was a transfer from marble to hard asphalt ground. and sometimes fear make it hard to get back in the stoke(groove) yeah its not to underestimate. but you know fear isnt a bad thing either. i have a phobia for insects.(except when i was in army) cause yeah you get used to it. but even in army i would close up my clothes wearing a thin cloak for camouflage and close up all the wholes in my body socks closed with elastic and etcetera and neck with kol. but yeah it resulted in having itches in summer LOL. silly. but it was still better then having bloodsuckers nect to your balls when crossing waters.

this is also what i ment with blockwalls. it can be:
fear
lack of insight
wrong technique
willpower
and so forth

and some somehow cant be overwon

DreamSurf wrote:.....i dont have to tell you my whereabouts so you can suck on it.

Nice to have you back Dream.....Merry Christmas!

Big H wrote:

DreamSurf wrote:.....i dont have to tell you my whereabouts so you can suck on it.

Nice to have you back Dream.....Merry Christmas!

f u and your christmas. you have an innate ability to screw people over while making yourself look like a victim. and ok yeah im a 3 months or so surfer. and 3 month in the future ill be a six months surfer and so on. but i know one thing you better at. your a two face playing a victim.



and now the likes of you are waiting in a row to back you up.

It's one thing to be a keyboard warrior on a friendly surfing intended forum but then the other is a arrogant beginner thinking their amazing. This forum and the members in it helped you to where you are today, supposedly a 14 week beginner riding 3 metre swell in morroco. Calm down people are just taking the piss because you say some really kooky stuff, Merry Christmas!

YungGrom wrote:It's one thing to be a keyboard warrior on a friendly surfing intended forum but then the other is a arrogant beginner thinking their amazing. This forum and the members in it helped you to where you are today, supposedly a 14 week beginner riding 3 metre swell in morroco. Calm down people are just taking the piss because you say some really kooky stuff, Merry Christmas!

Grats. First on in the row.

DreamSurf wrote:f u and your christmas.

DreamSurf or Grinchsurf ?

Dreamsurf is muslim so does not celebrate Christmas. If he lived in a predominantly Christian country he might not object to people wishing him merry Christmas but he may find it offensive especially given that he has not hidden that he was muslim.

YungGrom wrote:supposedly a 14 week beginner riding 3 metre swell in morroco.

Hey ! get your facts straight, buddy. It's 4 meters waves NOT 3 meters !

DreamSurf wrote: i had fights with waves over 4 meters in morocco trying to be all that.