Surfing Waves

Hello everyone, My name is Oldmansurfer and I am a surfaholic. It's been 5 days since my last surf and I can barely wait for the next session. Kowabunga !

I guess that's the downside of living 5 minutes from a Hawaiian beach ... 5 days seems a long time

It reminded me of the story, as I stopped to smoke and could not stand. True, eventually overcame this problem. Or once I shut down access to your favorite site is not replaced un and did not use advanced.name.

Hello my name is icetime and I'm also a surfaholic, because of the changing seasons all we got is blown out surf and heavy currents, I haven't surfed in a week, I might travel the weekend to another part of the country that picks up less swell to atleast surf a bit there

Sometime the surf is too "good" for my comfort zone

5-7ft at my local home (beach) break.
Simply paddling out in that would leave me too tired / scared to even try to catch a wave. Hope it mellows out a bit by Thursday.

pmcaero wrote:Sometime the surf is too "good" for my comfort zone

5-7ft at my local home (beach) break.
Simply paddling out in that would leave me too tired / scared to even try to catch a wave. Hope it mellows out a bit by Thursday.

Well atleast it's glassy and the channels aren't closing out, my home break is practically impossible to surf when it's the slightest bit windy(all the damn time)

icetime wrote:Well atleast it's glassy and the channels aren't closing out, my home break is practically impossible to surf when it's the slightest bit windy(all the damn time)

channels? what are those? I have never been able to find one. I think it just takes raw stamina and good duck-diving skills.

pmcaero wrote:Sometime the surf is too "good" for my comfort zone

5-7ft at my local home (beach) break.

Its hard to tell from a photo whether there are rips and currents or closeouts etc but those waves dont look too bad - you should give it a go. Everything works the same way as a smaller wave, maybe just a bit faster

For reference, 'Australian size' those are 3ft waves (ie head high). Once you get used to that size its arguably the funnest wave height for most people - enough power so you dont have to pump, enough power to make turns fairly easy but not so much power that you are being pounded or falling from great heights

Not saying go tomorrow but dont get it in your mind that they are unsurfable for anyone but experts

dtc wrote:
Not saying go tomorrow but dont get it in your mind that they are unsurfable for anyone but experts

They are definitely surfable. But by the time I make it out I am too tired to do anything. Today it turned slightly onshore in the afternoon anyway. I'm hoping for better conditions on Thursday morning, or tomorrow afternoon, with winds more offshore.

Can't tell by a picture but I think that's the channel, obviously you'll have to watch from the beach for a minute to spot the channel.

My board has too much volume to duck dive so the only way I get out is by going through the channel or when it's big I just wait for a lull and paddle as if I was going to catch a wave except I'm going for the lineup at full throttle
I'm ordering my first PU surfboard this week, probably a 5'10 or something like that, I'm a light dude so that's actually a few inches longer than what the shaper suggested but I'd rather not but hey now I can definetly duck dive my way to the lineup

icetime wrote:
Can't tell by a picture but I think that's the channel, obviously you'll have to watch from the beach for a minute to spot the channel.

Could be for a really fast paddler, not me. I have never been able to spot a channel with relatively mellow waves when it's over 4ft. Always a pounding to get out, even with a shortboard which I can duckdive, for the most part.

speaking of 'holics, anyone else in the US drinking tonight?

Oh well there will be plenty of excuses to drink now. You guys would wonder what was wrong with me if you saw some of the surf I go out in......hey I'm old do I need another excuse?

dtc wrote:

pmcaero wrote:Sometime the surf is too "good" for my comfort zone

5-7ft at my local home (beach) break.

It
For reference, 'Australian size' those are 3ft waves (ie head high). Once you get used to that size its arguably the funnest wave height for most people - enough power so you dont have to pump, enough power to make turns fairly easy but not so much power that you are being pounded or falling from great heights

I was thinking those waves were exactly what you need.....

Will be 3ft here tomorrow; really looking forward to it. Don't push yourself beyond what you can handle capably, but I will bet that you'd do better in those waves than you think you would....shouldn't have to duck dive much either if at all....just get over that inside break at the bottom of the image then paddle out there....waves aren't breaking there then paddle up to the peak once you're out back. Can't surf without good waves and those look tasty....

Big H wrote:I was thinking those waves were exactly what you need.....

Will be 3ft here tomorrow; really looking forward to it.

not today...got only 3 hours of sleep and watching the shitshow last night I polished half a bottle of wine and had 2-3 cups of tea with copious rum additions...not hungover tjough, just sad.

That's why we need to to go surf and forget about everything for a few hours.

Beautiful autumn day and having a pretty solid swell here at 4-5ft face with occasional 6ft according to Surfline. It's a little too big for me to paddle out without being exhausted. But it doesn't matter. Sadly I"m stuck indoor with obligations...

saltydog wrote:That's why we need to to go surf and forget about everything for a few hours.

Beautiful autumn day and having a pretty solid swell here at 4-5ft face with occasional 6ft according to Surfline. It's a little too big for me to paddle out without being exhausted. But it doesn't matter. Sadly I"m stuck indoor with obligations...

are you on the US East Coast? they predict a window of good surf tomorrow. Hope I can make it out otherwise I'll hate myself.

I am not a surfaholic. I am not obsessed with waves, boards, or riding skills. I don't even live near the coast. To know the truth of this you only have to look at how I spend my time....

Make sure nothing happened to my longboard and skateboard during the night
Go online to check 2 Mile surf blog, Magic Seaweed, local surfcam, Chan's blog and SurfingWaves

Do 50 sit-ups, 40 push ups, 10 pop-ups
Daydream while doing other stuff.

Rotate cross training : Swim 1 mile, bike 20 miles, jog 5 miles, skate slalom 'til my calves ache
Twice/month or when the budget permits - SURF

A little light reading - currently into "Surfing California, A guide to the Best Breaks"
Tuck my longboard and skateboard in for the night.

pmcaero wrote:are you on the US East Coast? they predict a window of good surf tomorrow. Hope I can make it out otherwise I'll hate myself.

I'm in Southern California. We are finally over the flat summer days and things have been looking good for the last couple of weeks. Today was beautiful, warm with good swell and wind again. I'm still stuck indoor, however.

BoMan wrote:I am not a surfaholic...

He's in denial.

While it's been 6 months since my last surf, determined and under the advice of the doctor to not get my moonboot wet I embarked on a plastic bag mission.. Safe to say it worked joss only when I fell in and came up with the bags full of water but no issues paddle boarding!

Currently in el nido in the Philippines, highly recommend- a lot better than Thailand, Vietnam, Bali etc