Surfing Waves

Anyone feel this when they surf? It's a real thing when you first paddle out to a lineup and the others size you up.....depending on the level of the lineup, you better stick that first wave if you want respect......regular spots I don't feel this since all the regulars are familiar with each other.....but in unfamiliar lineups, all eyes are definitely on you for that first wave.

I have to psyche myself up and put blinders on.....thing I hate is when paddling for the wave and looking down the line is to lock on eye contact with others who want to watch you. First wave, fine.....I expect it and am ready for it......what really gets me is that accidental eye contact (one or several sets of eyes on you) an hour into the sesh, when you are not expecting it since you've been next to most of the lineup all that time.....caught off guard it really throws me off and I usually blow the wave either outright at takeoff or on the bottom turn as my whole rhythm and connection to the wave is interrupted.

A byproduct of overcrowded lineups and a personal issue that I need to work out ......anyone else experience this?

The only thing that bothers me when I surf with others is that I get in their way or they get in my way. Those issues make me surf different but other than that it is always just me dancing with the wave. I think the odds that I will look like I can't surf as well as I do is about equal to the chance that I will do something to make them think I can surf better than I can. I guess whatever they think of me is unimportant since in a week they won't be there and I will be surfing alone again

Just imagine....you paddle battle three guys to get the wave....you win, knowing this with a quick look over your shoulder at the breaking wave and you turn your head to sight down the line and........there are three guys in the pits that are just about in your line just staring at you hard in the face..........regardless of what I feel about what they might think about me, it's kind of an animal reaction....I don't like being stared at.


BTW....surfing alone....what's that like? I gave up and called the sesh yesterday because it was so crowded there was nothing but dead end corridors once you got up on the wave....literally nowhere to go it was so crowded.

Yup, in Hawaii, you'd better not biff that first wave. If you do, you'd just be getting the unwanted scrap waves after that or if even. If you rip, you're cool.
BUT in Japan, it is totally opposite. If you rip the first wave, now you're seen as a challenge. Because of that, I always try to kook out on my first wave. I even goes so far as to ride switch stance to get really awkward.

oldmansurfer wrote:The only thing that bothers me when I surf with others is that I get in their way or they get in my way.

You've been in lineups before where the first wave is important though right? If you blow it, for the rest of the sesh you have paddle battles because you are the guy who might or might not get the wave....blow it bad enough people will outright drop in on you until you establish yourself again. I'm not talking self esteem issues; these are real practical ones. Blow the wave and you are in for a long day.

The staring in the face/catching the eyes thing is more of a distraction thing but one I need to get over....just freezes me for a sec if someone can lock onto my eyes. The anxiety usually lasts about 5 sec, starting from the time you recognise a wave on the way as being your first of the day....this morning I slapped my face, took a deep breath and then went for it (came good)....was particularly important this morning as the lineup was competitive, made me think about writing this.

waikikikichan wrote:Yup, in Hawaii, you'd better not biff that first wave. If you do, you'd just be getting the unwanted scrap waves after that or if even. If you rip, you're cool.
BUT in Japan, it is totally opposite. If you rip the first wave, now you're seen as a challenge. Because of that, I always try to kook out on my first wave. I even goes so far as to ride switch stance to get really awkward.

Interesting!

Some spots here at times are almost entirely populated by Japanese tourists surfers......I'm going to try being really clumsy and see if there is a difference.

Big H wrote:Some spots here at times are almost entirely populated by Japanese tourists surfers......I'm going to try being really clumsy and see if there is a difference.

If they're clogging the pit, just yell " Oi !! Abunai" and they should move. Don't be clumsy, just go right up to them and spray them. They'll get intimidated and paddle to the next peak.

When I do surf with a crowd I am usually further out than any of them. In the middle part of the bay I will usually surf the outermost break and the crowd will be shortboarders surfing an inside peak. They like it because there is less current at that position but I like the bigger waves. So I end up occasionally riding to where they are all lined up and there are maybe 10 or 12 guys and I am still not confident enough to zip in and out of them so I cut out because I don't want to run any of them over. At Horners the reef break there are several peaks and I tend to go to the outermost one whereas most of the guys line up for "the bowl" part of the break which is inside of where I usually am. Depends on the swell direction but sometimes I like the bowl part. But usually if there are lots of people at outside Horners I will go to the middle part of Horners which generally has less surfers or go one of the many other breaks in the bay.

I get the stare often enough, probably for a different reason like "look at that small old person on a big longboard," but a stare nevertheless. It used to bother me but eventually I got used to it. If it's Japanese tourists staring at you, it's more likely they have some bad manners but really they are quite impressed to see a big tall guy ripping (b/c they don't see big tall guys at home that often), not trying to assess your ability or intimidate you or anything negative. I've lived in Japan long enough to notice their habits, and they don't nod or smile even if they are feeling friendly.